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lifters making noise after installing adjustable push rods

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horse62049

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IVe got aquestion on 1991 evo top end was rebuilt last year road it all year base gasket was leaking a little used harley gaskets took it back apart used james this time put it back together making lifter noise now got 24 tpi rods when i did it last year thought i set at 3 turns past zero lash was quit as could be after rebuilt then i set it this time to three and making noise thought after the fact it was 4 past i set it at last year as long as i can still move the push rods with my fingers i should be ok to set it to 4 and see if that stops the noise. aim i right and do i have to re do them or can i go to top dead center and just turn them one turn whats best.thanks for any help
 
It could be the thickness of the James gaskets vs. the oem Harley gaskets creating the issue. My guess os the James are a little bit thicker creating an overall taller head height due to the final crush. You should be ok to go a couple more flats if they are all making noise to see if it eliminates the ticking. Make sure to allow them to bleed down before moving on to the next cylinder and that they spin freely with some resistance. They shouldn't spin really easily from my experience, but rather take a little effort and not be sloppy loose after they've bled down. Let us know if a few more flats quiets them down. And i'm assuming new lifters were used and the cam is a bolt in without more than a .510 lift correct?
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Yes every thng is the same you just made the light go on the james is a thicker gasket im sure that is it harley was a .30 james is .45 thanks will let you know.
 
forgot to ask should i take rods loose again or can i just set at top dead center let them bleed off adjust couple flats let bleed off and see if they spin with fingers.then do the same with the front with out starting back at zero lash just wondering if you can do it that way.
 
ALWAYS Star Over from "0" lash.... Best....

Setting from "0" lash. I use the 4.1 on my SE Slender Tapers (24 per ").

I have found that using 2.5---3---- 3.5 Not enough Pre-Load on my stock "B" lifters.

The 4.1 works great in mine.

Some builders tighten till the lifter is completely bottomed out ... Telling by no turn and valve opened a bit. Not that hard to do ... Then backing off until they feel the p-rod turn easy(un hindered but collapsed IN all the way)
THEN ONE Full turn Loose . I'd add about 3 flats to make sure though.

I run my 09 with se 255's and they are quiet ONLY by using 4.0 -- 4.1...

I know yours is an EVO,,,,, same difference on the lifters. Try the 4.0 to 4.1 and No matter thickness of gaskets used, the setting from "0" Lash is where you start.

FINGER tight and Not Wrench tight to find "0" lash.
I shake the P-rod to make sure it is at "0" after I Think it is there.....FINGERS Only...Then wrench and COUNT accurate...

Using solid Original push-rods Will make a difference on gasket and head Changed Dimensions. (stacking height)

NO difference from "0" lash regardless of gaskets used on adjustable P-rods..

Just My Way

signed....BUBBIE
 
Bubbies method is thourough and correct however, i still believe you'll be perfectly safe just going a couple of more flats at a time providing your initial method of zero lash was done correctly. He noted that the stack height is more critical with solid lifters and I completely agree, however different gaskets will will change the final stack dimensions. I've safely used my method in the past to quiet down one annoying lifter, usually the front exhaust without taking them all back down to zero lash. Just my opinion and that's what great about this forum, you may get two opinions but generally we respect and agree with each other. In short, if you're positive you are at say 3.5, i see no problem in going a few flats max to see if it eliminates the noise. If not, then i would go to zero lash and start all over to double check my work.
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Well what i did was set top dead center let rods bleed off they where loose so gave them full turn to 4 let them them bleed off move them with fingers did same with front they did feel to loose when checked them felt better at 4 put back together. sounds good no noise at all starts easy no lag just need to put some road under the tires and see how she does thanks guys
 
Ok road today everything seems to be good but i just want to double check just for peace of mind.as long as i could turn the rods with my fingers with oil on them i should not have them to tight right. and it didnt take alot to turn them so i should be good and not bend or hurt anything. the bike starts easy cold and hot quick responce on throttle no noice what are some sighns if you do get them to tight. before its to late thanks went from three to four turns. on 24 tpi rods
 
horse62049 said:
Ok road today everything seems to be good but i just want to double check just for peace of mind.as long as i could turn the rods with my fingers with oil on them i should not have them to tight right. and it didnt take alot to turn them so i should be good and not bend or hurt anything. the bike starts easy cold and hot quick responce on throttle no noice what are some sighns if you do get them to tight. before its to late thanks went from three to four turns. on 24 tpi rods
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Loss of compression and bent push rods or bent valves if they are too tight, if you can still spin them you should be good to go, if the valves were too tight also they would be off their seats a bit more and expect some coughing and maybe some fire out of the air cleaner in an extreme case
 
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