Ignition Wire Overheating-2000 Heritage

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Freeride77, May 1, 2012.

  1. Freeride77

    Freeride77 Member

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    The ignition has 3 red wires. The one that controls the lignts, etc. is overheating. I tried another ignition and the same thing happened.

    I replaced the wiring harness to the front lights. I checked the light switch on the handlebar and no pinched wires. I checked the light bar running lights and turn signals and no pinched wires. I replaced the headlight bulb and checked the ground and everything appears to be OK.

    I took the fear fender off and inspected the wiring behind the oil tank. Nothing appears to be pinched.

    All the lights and blinkers do work, but the overheating at the ignition will blow the fuse.

    Any ideas would be helpful.
     
  2. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    What color is the wire at the ignition switch that is getting hot.
    What is the name assigned to the fuse that is blowing.
     
  3. Freeride77

    Freeride77 Member

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    All 3 wires on the ignition are red. It is blowing the fuse labeled ignition.
     
  4. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    1) When you use the word "ignition" are you referring to the ignition switch? If so, then all 3 wires at the ignition switch can't be solid red. If the bike is still in factory form, there should be a solid Red, Red with Gray & a Red with Black.

    2) If you were to leave the bars Run/Kill switch in the OFF position, would a New ignition fuse continue to blow?

    3) How quickly does this fuse blow. Does it blow immediately,, even before the bike has a chance to start or does the bike start and then after a few seconds the fuse finally blows.

    4) I own a Dyna and don't know the Softail designations for model codes. Is your bike a FLSTS, FXSTD or something other.
    Your bike does have a carburetor correct?
     
  5. Freeride77

    Freeride77 Member

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    1) I am referring to the ignition switch in which the key inserts. The wire that is getting hot does have a black stripe. The others 2 are solid red as far as I can see.

    2) When I turn the Run/Kill switch to off, the wire still heats up.

    3) I've got the tank and exhaust off the bike now so I can not start it.
    The fuse had not been blowing immediately though.

    4) The bike is a carbed FLSTC-Heritage Softail. All the wiring appears to be original factory installed.
     
  6. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    What was the last thing done to the bike before this problem showed up?
     
  7. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Based on:
    Red with Black wire is getting Hot.
    With bars kill switch in OFF position, fuse Still Blows.
    IGN 15Amp fuse is blowing.

    You can't rule it out, but for the moment lets say your problem is not a pinched wire in the harness or bars wiring that is touching ground. If we assume it is not a pinched wire, that leaves you only two possibilities.

    First thing I would do is unplug the "tip over" sensor connector right at the switch itself. The switch is located underneath the frame, near the front of the rear tire,, right next to the main circuit breaker. That area is exposed to water & road debris. It is a 3 wire connector and should have a solid Green, solid Black & solid Gray wire going to it. Disconnect that connector and once again check to see if the ignition wire gets warm or the fuse blows. It could easily be a shorted tip over switch.
    Inspect that area closely..,especially the solid gray wire for possible contact with the frame.
     
  8. Freeride77

    Freeride77 Member

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    I recently purchased the bike and the previous owner disclosed the problem.
    Since the purchase, I have been repairing other things and repainting.
     
  9. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    May open up other possibilities but still perform the tip over switch disconnect from above.
     
  10. Freeride77

    Freeride77 Member

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    I just unpluged the tip over sensor and the wire at the ignition heated up like before. I checked the wiring to the sensor and everything is in tact. The original shrink wrap is in its original shape also ( no bent or pinched areas).

    What is the other possibility you referred to ?