Ignition Module

Discussion in 'Softail Models' started by Nautilus, Sep 2, 2009.

  1. Nautilus

    Nautilus Banned

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    I've been offered a brand new Accel Mega-Fire ignition module for my 1995 Fatboy at way less than the retail price, a real bargain. Trouble is, I can't find any reviews about the product and it seems to have been discontinued. I wonder if anyone could shed some light over it and tell me if it's worth it. I really don't have an Ignition upgrade for my bike yet, but wouldn't want to pass out a $50 bargain if it's worth it.

    My bike has just a Big Sucker Stage 1 kit and free flowing pipes.

    Thanks
     
  2. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    I like the electronic ignition modules and have a Spyke single fire multi-spark unit on my bike (the '91 Dyna). The question I would have is that unit single fire or dual, and will you need a different coil too?

    Here are some destruction sheets I found on-line:

    http://www.accel-motorcycle.com/pdf/35400.pdf

    If that is not the unit, check here:

    ACCEL Motorcycle :: Instruction Sheets


    TQ
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2009
  3. Nautilus

    Nautilus Banned

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    That is the right model, but it doesn't quite say if it's dual or single fire. None the less, it's the complete kit... should I go for it? A few guys have told me I should... Maybe I will... but what REAL benefits would I get from it?
    I've read around that the actual gains are not so great with any ignition module
     
  4. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Biggest reason for me was eliminating the dual fire OEM system. Also, on my EI module, I could eliminate the VOES, which I did. I like that since it is one less thing to mess up with hose/diaphram/electrical all wrapped together. Also, the modules have different curves already build in that let you select a different ignition curve by changing out some simple pins, or the like. Additionally, mine had an idiot static timing light that let me put the timing mark in the "window" on the left side, and then turn the EI module in the nose cone until it was just right there!! I checked it with a timing light afterwards, and it was right on!!

    Those are my reasons.
     
  5. Nautilus

    Nautilus Banned

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    I went with it and bought,the bike seems torespond rather well and I have felt some slight changes, although I can't really explain what kind since there's no dyno in town. Bythe way, the guy I bought it from told me to goahead and run it on the 4 curve, which it says it is for a modified engine, exhaust and intake and it booststhe rev limit to 8000...I don't have a moded engine, just have a stage 1 BS and pipes and according to the module I should run it in the 3 curve for a intake an exhaust modded bike only with the rev limit a 7300 but the guy told me it didn't matter, I should run it in the 4 curve...
    Any input on this or shouldI just try both curves and choose whichever feels best?
     
  6. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Well, NEVER EVER run your stock HD engine anywhere close to that max rpm! In fact, in deference to Hobbit, I would treat 5k as the max for most of us.

    Just play with the settings and see how the engine does with it. Those links I included previously should get you to their website where you might find some documentation on what is what.

    TQ
     
  7. Nautilus

    Nautilus Banned

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    5k as the max rpm on an evo engine? this is interesting... the module's minimum rpm limit is 6300, check the first link u gave me, page 2 at the bottom, it has an explanation of the 3 curves... I just went head on and choose the 3 curve since it fits my bikes current description but I haven't tried the other 3...
     
  8. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    I was not referring to what the ignition system will let you do, I was referring to what I think folks SHOULD do (or not do in this case!). Without modifying the engine for speed and to take those kind of higher rpms, I would strongly discourage folks with fairly stock bikes from running their engines that hard.

    But, freedom of choice and all that!! What is broken can usually be fixed if it's just the metal!

    TQ
     
  9. Caper

    Caper Active Member

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    I would run at curve 3 for a while then swithch to #1 to see if you notice a difference(I doubt you will)A Stage 1 Evo doesn't really need a more agressive advance curve and 7000RPM rev limit is kinda high and if you hit the stops at 8000 you'd be replacing parts in short order. 6300 would be the safest limit and I still wouldn't want to hit that very often.
    I've got an Evo Heritage with quite a few mods done to it and had the rev limit set at 7000RPM , then I backed it off to 6500 'cause I really didn't want to blow it up and when I put it back on the road I'm going to drop it again to 6000. Even at those RPM's you're not making any more power, just wearing out parts in a hurry.
     
  10. kemo

    kemo R.I.P

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    I cann't understand why people think they have to rev the snot out of their Harleys. If they want to rev 15000 go get something Japaneese. They rev higher, faster, and you don't have to put 5000 bucks into it to make it go