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Greetings from the left coast, USA

Hi! I found this thread while searching for info on a brake dragging issue I am working on. I have to say that I was really impressed at the quality of the advice and the generosity of those contributing their time to the process. Over my very long lifetime my experiences with public forums has been all over the board. Some are great. Others are inhabited by total jerks. So far, what I've seen here is very impressive so I'm hoping I will be welcomed to hang around for a while.

I've been riding since 1962, first bike was a 1951 hydraglide. So obviously not a young guy. Formerly from the east coast (Boston) and headed west from New Hampshire in the mid-80's. I am definitely NOT a gifted mechanic but for whatever it's worth I do most of my own wrenching and I was a machinist mate in the US Navy. Computer systems engineering was my profession and I have a BSEE.

In my old age I am trying to learn more about what makes my bikes go. As much as a mental agility project as it is a hobby. For most of my life I rode them until they broke. These days I am digging in and being much more proactive about looking into things that are wearing out, need attention and so on. In some ways I hate doing anything that might disable my bike since if there is any way to install something backwards, I'll find it. But I do have a second "daily driver", my 1997 FXR so if I botch something up I won't be a pedestrian.

I'm currently working on an issue with my rear brake that I believe was there from day one. I've found several serious issues on my 2010 FXSTC (purchased new) that could have only happened from the factory so when I'm working on a problem I have to assume nothing on this bike is what it should be unless I have personally taken it apart. This bike has always had a rear brake issue and until fairly recently I thought it was just because Harley brake pads are crap. Now I'm thinking the pads are dragging just a tad so I'm working on figuring out why. Wheel turns freely and no scuffing sounds are heard. But there is zero clearance between the bad and the rotor with no pressure applied to the brake lever.

Not in need of any help at this point but OCD that I am, I figured finding a friendly forum populated by guys who know a lot more than I do might be a good place to drop by. So thanks in advance for your hospitality! I have a number of projects in mind so I will probably be picking people's brains now and then.
 
Welcome to HDT from Sweet Home Alabama, lots of great and smart minds here to help when needed.
If we don't have the answer we'll lie and say we do.
 
Welcome from Spokane Washington.
You research brake pad contact distance between rotor and pad when at rest. Not sure but see if you can find info on residual pressure, that is needed so the pads are at contact with rotors keeping play or excess pedal drop from happening.
What you describe is most likely normal.
 
Welcome from Spokane Washington.
You research brake pad contact distance between rotor and pad when at rest. Not sure but see if you can find info on residual pressure, that is needed so the pads are at contact with rotors keeping play or excess pedal drop from happening.
What you describe is most likely normal.
Too much brake dust and this is my third set of pads in 20k miles so unlikely it's normal. I typically get ~ 40k on a set of rear pads. There is less than .0015" between pad and rotor. I haven't checked yet but I'm guessing the rotor run-out is more than that. Front brake has easily visible space between pad and rotor. Since no rear wheel scuffing is heard, the space must be microscopic and there is clearly friction happening. So as stated, I want to find out what's going on just because I want to better understand how things work. Appreciate your feedback. When I needed new pads after 6 months and a couple of thousand miles, the Dealership said I was "braking incorrectly". So they were zero help from the jump.
 
If the wheel spins freely and there is no noise indicating contact between the rotor and pads, I am not sure there is an issue. Having said that, the usual fix for this issue would be to remove the caliper and inspect the pucks for something that would keep them from retracting all the way. I have used a shoe string with carb cleaner to clean road grime from the pucks to allow them to retract all the way. Have to be careful when extending the pucks so they don't pop out all the way. I have a piece of aluminum flat bar that I insert between the pads to keep the pucks from popping out.

If the issue came with the bike, maybe a rebuild of the rear caliper is in order?;)
 
Welcome to HDT from Sweet Home Alabama, lots of great and smart minds here to help when needed.
If we don't have the answer we'll lie and say we do.
Appreciate the welcome Jeff. In 2021 I drove the length (South to North) of Alabama to imagine David Allen Coe's "The Ride" with Hank. In a hemi Challenger and not a Cadillac though. Beautiful state and great people. Very kind to me even though I'm a dad-gum Yankee :)
 
If the wheel spins freely and there is no noise indicating contact between the rotor and pads, I am not sure there is an issue. Having said that, the usual fix for this issue would be to remove the caliper and inspect the pucks for something that would keep them from retracting all the way. I have used a shoe string with carb cleaner to clean road grime from the pucks to allow them to retract all the way. Have to be careful when extending the pucks so they don't pop out all the way. I have a piece of aluminum flat bar that I insert between the pads to keep the pucks from popping out.

If the issue came with the bike, maybe a rebuild of the rear caliper is in order?;)
This is pretty much a since day one issue so dirt causing this problem is unlikely. The pistons are shiny and clean. Haven't really dug into this and have not flushed the fluid yet. My gut says this not a caliper problem but since it's the easiest thing to disassemble that's what I'm investigating first. Just as general information, tell me about "residual pressure", how much there is supposed to be and what component(s) cause this. I'm going to guess when I crack the bleeder, some fluid is going to come out. In my mind, this would be the cause of my issue. Seems to me that intentional residual brake fluid pressure would inhibit the pistons from retracting. Is there a FAQ on this "feature"?
 
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