fuel managment help plz

Discussion in 'General Harley Davidson Topic' started by hdultra2010, Mar 5, 2015.

  1. hdultra2010

    hdultra2010 Member

    hello again,
    so lately I was looking at doing stage one upgrade, I have already 4" Rinehart slip on, looking to buy high air flow from KN.
    now as I did some research on fuel tuner, I find a lot of ppl recommend 3 choice , and no brainer I will not be different ,
    - the fuel pack for my 2010 ultra classic , cheap and it does work . not a lot of doing or tuning , it stays with the motorcycle all the time.
    _ power vision, is double price of fuel pack . has the ability to flash the ecm and take it off put it on shelf. has extra gadget for more whats going with motorcycle like rpm , engine heat ....more tuning capability and I can add autotune for future upgrade ...
    _ thundermax is same as powervision with autotune as price wise, but it doesn't have the gadget and it stays with motorcycle all the time.

    I am more leaning to power vision as for now cause I can add autotune if I did a cam or engine upgrade.
    my questions is:
    is what I write right or not?

    my second question is :
    What happen if I did trade my motorcycle after a year or two ...? can I take my power vision and flash the ecm to original map. and then use it on my new motorcycle or I just waisted $500 on it and give it away with trade?

    if so I will go with thundermax cause I can take it off and use it on the new one :(

  2. biscuit

    biscuit Junior Member

    I can maybe help with Thundermax answers,but not Power Vision---:newsmile07:

    I had a T/max (with Autotune) fitted to my '08 96" FLSTN. I also had S&S Easy start 583 Cams fitted along with SE slip-ons and the obligatory Stage 1 Air filter. It used to work ok.
    My brother still has one on his similarly equipped '08 FLSTF and it works great. At the very least, I enjoyed trying different maps and settings and doing fine tuning. I DID sometimes feel that a new map would feel really good for the first half hour ride, and revert back to how it felt like previously.

    Recently I altered the gearing on my bike-going 9% shorter for extra grunt. From that point on my bike would not hold a consistent tune. Starting would become harder, the bike would start running richer and throttle response would worsen.Every map I loaded would eventually run not so good.At least I could alter and correct the speedo calibration.I was never sure if that had any effect on the T/max or not--

    Late last year, I took my bike to a local guy who bored it to 103", fitted High Compression S.E pistons, roller rockers, hi-volume S.E oil pump and a TTS Mastertune( that was his preference for tuning). When he stripped my heads he found the motor had been running so rich I had soot all over the crowns and down the sides of the pistons. This was despite my T/max maps being "leaner" ones. Have to say I was surprised, but not overly. I have always been a proponent of the T/max but as mentioned I thought it kept going "off".

    Back to your question: the T/max does NOT reflash the standard ECU- it replaces it.Completely. Even the O2 sensors.Plus I think they come with the Autotune module as standard. IF they don't, then you must buy it, add it or whatever. But you must---
    If you add Cams or Air filters or Exhausts or bigger bores, then you merely need to work out which is the closest T/max map to your mods, and upload it into the ECU. Simple.And it really is. AND with the Autotune option it should actually tune and smooth the power as you ride.

    You're quite correct that it stays with the bike at all times, but you CAN take it off and refit all the original H-D stuff to the bike if you intend to trade or sell it.HOWEVER, the bike will probably (almost certainly) run like a piece of rubbish with a standard ECU and a modded engine. In which case I doubt anybody would buy it!
    Not only that, how do you know it would work on a later bike? I know there are currently 3 different Thundermaxes available for touring bikes and Softails; and who's to say there won't be even more come trade-in time?

    I think you'll have no option but to sell the bike WITH your T/max fitted, unless your bike magically works with the standard ECU and narrow band O2 sensors.It really cannot be removed with any expectation that the vehicle will still work, despite any or all mods.
    So in that respect is your other choice better? Is it merely a "Piggyback" module, or something more permanent like the T/max?

    Can't tell you how my bike goes now,as I was injured a few months back and have not ridden a bike since November.