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front wheel sound

thanks! wiped fittings down first thing today with paper towel, nothing there..
i wonder if i have discovered an error in the service manual(and the instructions that came with front caliper kit)..under caliper reassembly it says to put a bridge bolt in the middle hole, and one by the bleeder valve, which is at the upper end of the caliper, so it will catch the air.. problem is the upper(long) mounting bolt actually seems to be the third bridge bolt holding the halves together, meaning the two bridge bolts gotta go in the middle and bottom hole(by the banjo bolt ). if you put the bridge bolts as instructed, the best way i can describe it when you go to attach the caliper to the fork, you will look at it like a cow looks at a new fence..:D
 
in reflection it occurs to me that i may now inderstand what it is that pulls the pads back off the rotor when the lever is released. I noticed when bleeding and squeezing the lever to move the pistons out that the fluid and bubbles in the hose from the bleeder valve goes forward when the lever is pressed and moves back when the lever is released, as though whatever resistance exists in the line when pressurized by the lever adding more fluid from the reservoir,pushes back toward the reservoir when the lever is released. the movement of the fluid toward the reservoir creates a reduced pressure zone sucking the piston back in..
and the sound in the wheel that started my inquiry is gone, telling me that it was most likely a nonretracting pad that rubbed because it was cocked ..lever is now very firm, and pads are more broken in and i will be able to brake more aggressively to see if the stopping performance is better..
 
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