This is not meant to be an advice manual, nor is it a complete guide-Get a workshop manual if you are thinking about doing this and that has all the steps. This is only my experience when i did the swap recently. There is also a brilliant step by step guide to doing this job on this forum. Check it out.
If you don't have the skills to do this swap then for goodness sake don't fool yourself into thinking you are saving money. If you get this wrong it can kill you!!! Spending a few $ with your dealer to ensure it is done right is money well spent.
The accessories manual says that there are no other parts needed to do the swap. That was my experience but it was not as smooth as it could have been. the clutch cable is tight.
If it is chrome. If it is painted then I cover it with blankets and towels. I will always will drop something and Murphy's Law says it will land on a painted surface.
I needed new grips as well because the left one was glued on and it was destroyed getting it off.
The HD instructions seem to focus on non ABS bikes. There were many steps in them that were not relevent to my bike. Mine has ABS so i didn't have to unbolt the brake lines etc.
I did not open the brake system at all. I just wanted to change the bars and I didn't want to do the internal wiring thing either.
I removed the outer fairing and light bar.
I removed the LH switch assy and clutch perch. I let them hang down near the crash bars. No need to unplug the wiring
I cut the LH grip off.
I moved to the RH and removed the master cylinder and RH grip. (I remembered to chock the lever) Again, I let them hang. No need to unplug wiring or brake lines
I removed the radio.
I removed the bars and gently removed the DBW throttle switch out the RH end of the bars. There is a small, green joiner plug inside the bars and the switch unplugged easilly from the harness.
I bolted the new bars onto the bike and adjusted them to where I wanted them.
I refitted the throttle switch and wiring harness but left the main switch wiring external as it was with the other bars.
I then bolted the controls back onto the new bars.
Everything bolted back on easily.
I had a bit of trouble with the clutch cable and had to relocate the cable to the middle of the downtube instead of leaving it on the right side. It was too tight on right lock. No need to move the cable to the outside of the fairing but I had to realign the cable on the lower frame.
I put the outer fairing back on and then it was time for a ride:bigsmiley12:
I felt too close to the bars when i took it for the first ride but I am getting used to them and I find that I have more control of the bike than when i was reaching for the old bars.
Cheers
Neil
If you don't have the skills to do this swap then for goodness sake don't fool yourself into thinking you are saving money. If you get this wrong it can kill you!!! Spending a few $ with your dealer to ensure it is done right is money well spent.
The accessories manual says that there are no other parts needed to do the swap. That was my experience but it was not as smooth as it could have been. the clutch cable is tight.
If it is chrome. If it is painted then I cover it with blankets and towels. I will always will drop something and Murphy's Law says it will land on a painted surface.
I needed new grips as well because the left one was glued on and it was destroyed getting it off.
The HD instructions seem to focus on non ABS bikes. There were many steps in them that were not relevent to my bike. Mine has ABS so i didn't have to unbolt the brake lines etc.
I did not open the brake system at all. I just wanted to change the bars and I didn't want to do the internal wiring thing either.
I removed the outer fairing and light bar.
I removed the LH switch assy and clutch perch. I let them hang down near the crash bars. No need to unplug the wiring
I cut the LH grip off.
I moved to the RH and removed the master cylinder and RH grip. (I remembered to chock the lever) Again, I let them hang. No need to unplug wiring or brake lines
I removed the radio.
I removed the bars and gently removed the DBW throttle switch out the RH end of the bars. There is a small, green joiner plug inside the bars and the switch unplugged easilly from the harness.
I bolted the new bars onto the bike and adjusted them to where I wanted them.
I refitted the throttle switch and wiring harness but left the main switch wiring external as it was with the other bars.
I then bolted the controls back onto the new bars.
Everything bolted back on easily.
I had a bit of trouble with the clutch cable and had to relocate the cable to the middle of the downtube instead of leaving it on the right side. It was too tight on right lock. No need to move the cable to the outside of the fairing but I had to realign the cable on the lower frame.
I put the outer fairing back on and then it was time for a ride:bigsmiley12:
I felt too close to the bars when i took it for the first ride but I am getting used to them and I find that I have more control of the bike than when i was reaching for the old bars.
Cheers
Neil
