I have a 2011 roadglide ultra that has had an engine knock from day one. I've had the pistons, rings and barrels replaced due them being out of round. That fixed, still had the knocking noise. The noise is at its loudest at between 2000-25000 rpm. I've had this noise inspected by 4 different harley dealers with the last two telling me its normal. I've owned plenty of harley's and have never experienced this type of noise. I run true duals and noticed the rear left muffler having a very dark build up at the inside tip. Using a stethoscope I've also noted a ticking noise coming from the upper front head area. The motorcycle has 27k miles on it. Exhaust Kuryakyn crusher true dual system utilizing the crossover headpipes. Kuryakyn big sucker air cleaner, TTS mastertune kit, 255 screamin eagle cams. I've also installed a crankcase breather kit due to excessive oil into the air cleaner causing constant oil spillage onto the the engine.
engine knock
- Thread starter maxbry
- Start date
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
maxbry,
Answering your First Post... Welcome if you are New Here...
Your oil spit Might be due to Sumping... IF your not overfilling the oil tank...
Check it:
After a normal ride, Pull the Plug (under engine Not the oil tank plug) Directly under motor.... It is about flush and allen headed... Carefully Remove......Catch oil to see how much comes out... Measure the amount DON't Guess....(bike standing up not on side stand)
6 or more oz. and your pump Is Not working correctly on returning the oil from the engine...
Total drain time about 1 minute Don't worry about the drips... Once main flow stopes,,, You stop collecting...Plug it...
Putting plug back in DON'T reef on it Just snug and FLUSH or less Like it was Before you removed it... A little pipe dope OR plastic tape will help keep it tight there. (my way)
Knock might be timing if not properly tuned with the TTS... I'm sure you meant 2000(LUGGING THERE) and 2500X
Was it tuned properly by a tuner?
Stock lifters? Might it be a LIFTER or More than one... They are the "C"s and some don't last long and TAP... Can be a problem from New and now with 27k due for new ones... SnS Standards are a good and not too costly... (139$)
signed....BUBBIE
Answering your First Post... Welcome if you are New Here...
Your oil spit Might be due to Sumping... IF your not overfilling the oil tank...
Check it:
After a normal ride, Pull the Plug (under engine Not the oil tank plug) Directly under motor.... It is about flush and allen headed... Carefully Remove......Catch oil to see how much comes out... Measure the amount DON't Guess....(bike standing up not on side stand)
6 or more oz. and your pump Is Not working correctly on returning the oil from the engine...
Total drain time about 1 minute Don't worry about the drips... Once main flow stopes,,, You stop collecting...Plug it...
Putting plug back in DON'T reef on it Just snug and FLUSH or less Like it was Before you removed it... A little pipe dope OR plastic tape will help keep it tight there. (my way)
Knock might be timing if not properly tuned with the TTS... I'm sure you meant 2000(LUGGING THERE) and 2500X
Was it tuned properly by a tuner?
Stock lifters? Might it be a LIFTER or More than one... They are the "C"s and some don't last long and TAP... Can be a problem from New and now with 27k due for new ones... SnS Standards are a good and not too costly... (139$)
signed....BUBBIE
dolt
Well-Known Member
Words like knock, tick, clack, tap, ping, etc. are used to describe a variety of ailments which are impossible to diagnose in a forum discussion.
As Bubbie points out, the ticking noise from the front head area is very likely due to lash in the valve train which is symptomatic of a lifter bleeding down, a lifter that could use a bit more preload, a roller issue (you do have the "C" made in Mexico lifters), or an improperly adjusted pushrod (if running adjustable pushrods).
The "knock" however is a very different sound. Not being able to hear the noise, I would start with a compression and leak down test to evaluate the condition of the top end.
Could be that you are lugging the motor in the 2000-2500 rpm range. Try down shifting. The HD vtwin motor needs/likes to spin; don't be afraid to spool it up. I rarely let my motor see anything below 2500 rpms under a load.
As Bubbie points out, the ticking noise from the front head area is very likely due to lash in the valve train which is symptomatic of a lifter bleeding down, a lifter that could use a bit more preload, a roller issue (you do have the "C" made in Mexico lifters), or an improperly adjusted pushrod (if running adjustable pushrods).
The "knock" however is a very different sound. Not being able to hear the noise, I would start with a compression and leak down test to evaluate the condition of the top end.
Could be that you are lugging the motor in the 2000-2500 rpm range. Try down shifting. The HD vtwin motor needs/likes to spin; don't be afraid to spool it up. I rarely let my motor see anything below 2500 rpms under a load.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
A knock is not normal, do you have adjustable pushrods? Any kind of tuner?
Knock, tick ALL have different meanings,as Dolt pointed out. A compression test is called out for and checking the cam chest and lifters
Knock, tick ALL have different meanings,as Dolt pointed out. A compression test is called out for and checking the cam chest and lifters
I'll give the oil drain a looksee, however I always keep my rpms in the 2000-3000 range. I don't like lugging. I've listened around the lifter area and find no noise at idle or at 2-25000 rpm. There is no noise coming from the lower (transmission) or the pistons, pins etc. Only up top and, only the front cylinder. The bike has been dyno tuned with the current equipment on it. Concerning the pushrods, their the adjustable type.
dolt
Well-Known Member
I would test compression and leak down but probably not an issue since you have had the top end rebuilt; however, that doesn't mean that cylinders are not out of round. It happened once and can easily happen again if using HD parts off the shelf and not ordering pistons .010"-.020" OS and boring cylinders to fit.
Are you still running the OEM compensator? If so, check; there have been many issues with that piece of hardware and 25K miles is about the point where the problem start to exhibit. It is very hard to discern where a noise originates. One will swear it is coming from the primary only to find the problem in the cam chest.:small3d023:
Dan.1977P
Active Member
This is where Dolt sent me since I won't stop complaining about my top end noise after the new cams. It's on my short list and even if you don't do the fix, if you pop the rocker boxes off, you can pretty easily tell if they are slopping around.
The Tapping, the quest is over - Harley Davidson Forums
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Yes,
That is one of them... Good information there about it.
I do think it to be One of my Noises but I'll keep rid'n cause it don't bother me.
I would Not Feel Right on a Completely Silent Harley... :rofl
I DO ride a LOT here in SE Az..... I bought New my 09 King at the very End of the 09 sale season... 2010's sitting right behind, Just out after Sturgis and on floor for sale.
Presently having 107,500 miles on it... New 103" build with New Heads by Don Dorffman AND his Delphi lifters, seasoned Cyl's bored 103"/fitted SE pistons and rings by prodrag1320 Kirby, new
SE255 cams/bearings/"A" camplate and a SE off road tuner.... 41,000 miles since that was Fresh... Many new Tires
signed....BUBBIE
That is one of them... Good information there about it.
I do think it to be One of my Noises but I'll keep rid'n cause it don't bother me.
I would Not Feel Right on a Completely Silent Harley... :rofl
I DO ride a LOT here in SE Az..... I bought New my 09 King at the very End of the 09 sale season... 2010's sitting right behind, Just out after Sturgis and on floor for sale.
Presently having 107,500 miles on it... New 103" build with New Heads by Don Dorffman AND his Delphi lifters, seasoned Cyl's bored 103"/fitted SE pistons and rings by prodrag1320 Kirby, new
SE255 cams/bearings/"A" camplate and a SE off road tuner.... 41,000 miles since that was Fresh... Many new Tires
signed....BUBBIE
I know the link is to an issue with a newer bike. I can tell you that on a 2003 with 40K miles. My rocker shafts do not "clack" at any RPM (marked and observed). They need to be beat out with a punch and beat back in with a punch. Is there room for the shaft to rock on the mounting bolt? Yes. It does not move at all. Can I slide the shaft in the stand on the bench without a rocker in place? Yes, until it gets to the end and then it is tight. No way its moving with a rocker on the shaft. At least not at 40K miles. This may be a newer "shortcut issue" that the Moco has taken and/or its leniency on tolerances.
Not minimizing an issue that may exist for some but just reporting how mine are assembled.
Not minimizing an issue that may exist for some but just reporting how mine are assembled.
Last edited: