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Edmunds says stop changing your oil. . .

Two thing make oil go bad. Both are due to carbon.
Oil burning. conventional oil starts burning around 450*F. Synthetic at around 600*F.
The other is combustion byproducts that get past the rings via the end gaps. Motors with gapless rings contaminate the oil far less than with conventional rings.

For the longest lasting protection, use full synthetic oil with gapless rings.
 
Don't forget about HEAT...

Headed INTO Sturgis on a HOT backed-up day and your bike overheating Big Time will destroy oil molecules and you'll loose Viscosity of the oil.

More so on Dino oil then a good synthetic. Synthetics seem to last longer under duress

Heat in an air cooled engine is a Good thing.

Over-Heat is Horrible:newsmile077: causing an early Death to our air cooled engines.

signed....BUBBIE
 
( Don't forget about HEAT...) Bubbies words, I, would add to Dirty intake air contaminating the fuel air mixture will take its toll on the rings and valve guides = faster wear and tear
 
I changed the oil in my trike and shop truck every 2000 miles.
Because of regular maintenance I had a 1982 Chevy S-10 that had over 100,000 miles on it.
Oil and filters are cheap, engines are not and good maintenance prolongs the life of the engine.
 
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I change according to the book and even sooner depending on the conditions. As others have said, oil and filters are cheap......motors are not. I have to ask this question.......is Edmunds going to replace/repair anything for you?
 
trike lady said:
I changed the oil in my trike and shop truck every 2000 miles.
Because of regular maintenance I had a 1982 Chevy S-10 that had over 100,000 miles on it.
Oil and filters are cheap, engines are not and good maintenance prolongs the life of the engine.
Click to expand...

My '02 Grand Am w/ 4cyl has over 160,000 miles (259,000 kms) with M1 synthetic doing 4000 to 6000 mile oil changes w/ OE filters. Still doesn't use oil. I threw out the old 2000 mile oil change idea when I went with synthetics.. Sometime you just have to trust the research and the science behind the information the car and motorcycle makers tell you in the owner's manual.

As for my Harley, I try not to go over the 5000 mile (8000 km) recommended by them. But if I'm doing a lot of stop and go in near freezing or extreme hot temps, that'll trigger more frequent changes. I just play it by feel; i.e. what I feel is needed.
 
I bought a 95 gmc truck new and always used valvoline semi syn. I sold it with 318000 miles and last I heard the new owner had just over 400000. Never a bolt turned or leak. Still had 55 psi at startup and ran 40 psi down the road. This was a 5.7 v8 gasoiline. Changed oil every 3000. My glide gets amsoil every 3 to 4. I now have a 2000 explorer I drive to work with 260000. Using valvoline again and never a bolt turned on it.
 
I've got a '90 F250 diesel. My work truck. Has 450,000 miles and runs like a top. Doesn't stop very well, but runs great. :p Never done any engine work to it. (knock wood) Change the oil every 3K. Diesels are dirty. And that thing holds 12 qts.
Now my bike I will change every 3-5K. Mobil1 V-Twin 20W-50 only.
My Mustang owners manual says 7500 miles, but I've been doing it every 5K.
 
Don't forget to smell the oil on the dipstick...besides color, if it smells like gasoline it probably is diluted by fuel leaking past the petcock for those who are running carbureted engines. That gravity fed flow can cause wet-sumping and if it fills cylinders of oil and gas. it can cause hard turnover on startup and damage something if severe! Had that happen on my Sportbike (a rice burner) but nonetheless, I keep a watchful eye on my Sportster too...!:s
 
NEWHD74FAN said:
Don't forget to smell the oil on the dipstick...besides color, if it smells like gasoline it probably is diluted by fuel leaking past the petcock for those who are running carbureted engines. That gravity fed flow can cause wet-sumping and if it fills cylinders of oil and gas. it can cause hard turnover on startup and damage something if severe! Had that happen on my Sportbike (a rice burner) but nonetheless, I keep a watchful eye on my Sportster too...!:s
Click to expand...
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GOOD Point NEWHD74FAN,

Liquid Does NOT compress... A Large amount can Cause a Bent rod when trying to start a flooded out cylinder... Moving up on the compression stroke and NO room to go up (gas filled)......BENT ROD may happen.

IF Ever you susspect gas in a cylinder to a large amount (usually leaked by the petcox)
Pull Plugs then kick over.. If squrting of raw fuel happens,, coming out the spark plug hole,,,,, you just saved a BIG repair bill... (then Change Oil and Filter)

Better safe then sorry.

I find the NEED to ALWAYS turn off the petcox on bikes that do have the valve to shut-off.

My 06 sport R Does have the valve to turn off. Vaccum safety or not TURN it OFF.

signed....BUBBIE
 
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