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DTC code question

300SRT8

Member
Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm new here.
I keep reading post's were people talk about checking the codes or check the DTC code, so it appears to me the bikes must have a main computer,board, or PCM like a car, so I was wondering what year / models that started, and more importantly, I have a 1998 RKCEFI, do I have one ?
 
Yes you have one on board. They have been around for quite a while in one form or another. You have the Morelli fuel injection system in your bike.

These are the DTC that should work in your bike...

Harley Davidson Community
 
No dumb questions. If you look at the top of your screen right under the HDTALKING logo you will see the Self Help Tips area. Scroll down until you highlight the Dianostics and Fuel Injection Related area and enjoy, you may be reading for sometime :s

As always to slow to beat glider!
 
Yes you have one on board. They have been around for quite a while in one form or another. You have the Morelli fuel injection system in your bike.

These are the DTC that should work in your bike...

Harley Davidson Community

Help me please! Very briefly two gallons of water found their way into my gas tank. (2000 FLHR-EFI) Only two days before that I had run the motorcycle to charge the battery. It was real cold so when it didn't start I assumed it was cold related. It warmed up and still no start. I did the obvious troubleshooting and found the water in my tank. I have drained the tank and filed it with clean gas. I added SeaFoam as a precaution. Still no start. I performed the ignition on/off 3x and hold the odometer button. I get no fault codes. With that being said here is my question: If I am not getting codes when I use the odometer method, do I still need to do the diagnostic link / jumper pin method? I have now removed the tank completely and cleaned and dried my injectors. They were wet when I removed them, and the supply and return line both had water in them. I also replaced the spark plugs. Can someone please tell me what direction I need to move in next. I'm confused that the bike ran before the water was installed in the tank, but having removed it the bike still won't start. Thanks and Semper Fi!
 
I looked in the Self Help section under 2 different codes for diagnostics but couldn't get either one to come up right. I checked my stuff and your year model doesn't give codes in the odometer window. The check engine light flashes to give you codes. See if this works.
Put your Run/Kill switch in Run, turn Ign. switch on for 3 seconds,wait 1 second after fuel pump stops. Turn only the Ign. switch off for 3 seconds. Repeat this again. On 3rd. on cycle wait 8 seconds for Check engine light to start blinking several times and then a 2 second pause. It will then blink 1 or many times for the first digit. Then a 2 second delay and starts blinking again for the second digit. Count the blinks for the 1st. & 2nd. digits, that is you code. Example is 2 rapid blinks,2 sec. pause, 5 rapid blinks =code 25 for a Rear Injection code.Once you start getting a repeat of the same codes then that's all there is. When you return to Off the diagnostics is complete, it will NOT show Historic codes. Hope this helps.
May a Moderator can fix the links for the Diagnostics I couldn't get.
tourbox
 
Help me please! Very briefly two gallons of water found their way into my gas tank. (2000 FLHR-EFI) Only two days before that I had run the motorcycle to charge the battery. It was real cold so when it didn't start I assumed it was cold related. It warmed up and still no start. I did the obvious troubleshooting and found the water in my tank. I have drained the tank and filed it with clean gas. I added SeaFoam as a precaution. Still no start. I performed the ignition on/off 3x and hold the odometer button. I get no fault codes. With that being said here is my question: If I am not getting codes when I use the odometer method, do I still need to do the diagnostic link / jumper pin method? I have now removed the tank completely and cleaned and dried my injectors. They were wet when I removed them, and the supply and return line both had water in them. I also replaced the spark plugs. Can someone please tell me what direction I need to move in next. I'm confused that the bike ran before the water was installed in the tank, but having removed it the bike still won't start. Thanks and Semper Fi!


1. Remove right side saddlebag and side cover if so equipped. Remove protective plug from data link connector. Other models will be under the seat.

2. To activate the diagnostic feature,follow these steps.
a. Create diagnostic test wire or use a female spade clip which will bridge the two terminals perfectly.
b. Install diagnostic test wire/clip across Terminals 1 and 2 on the data link connector, they are marked.
c. Turn Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION and wait approximately 10 seconds (4 seconds lamp ON, 6 seconds lamp OFF) for check engine lamp to start flashing.

3. All trouble codes are sent out as a series of flashes. To retrieve the first digit of the trouble code simply observe the number of times the lamp flashes.
a. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the first digit of the trouble code.
b. The length of time the lamp is illuminated and the length of time in which it is off are each about 0.5 second in duration.

4. The second digit follows:
a. Following the transmission of the first digit, there is a 1.2 second pause in which the lamp is off.
b. The lamp will then flash one or more times to indicate the second digit of the trouble code. Count the number of times the lamp flashes to retrieve the second digit.

5. If more than one trouble code is sent:
a. Following transmission of the second digit of the first code, there is a 3 second pause in which the lamp is off.
b. Once all codes have been sent, the data string is repeated. When you have recorded the same trouble code twice, it is an indication that the transmission has been restarted and that all trouble codes have been retrieved.

IMPORTANT NOTE ..If diagnostic test wire is installed across Pins 1 and 2 on connector in lieu of a Scanalyzer, the ECM is placed in a diagnostic test mode and the engine will start. The test wire must be removed from the data connector and the ignition switch turned OFF or the check engine lamp will continue to flash codes. A historic trouble code resides in the memory of the ECM until the code is cleared by use of the Scanalyzer or a total of 50 trips has elapsed. A “trip” consists of a start and run cycle, the run cycle lasting at least 30 seconds. After the 50 trip retention period, the trouble code is automatically erased from memory (that is, assuming no subsequent faults of the same type are detected in that period). The numbers after the 'historic' or 'current' is the speedo code number, but without the electrical diagnostics manual you're not going to know what they mean.

The code numbers are the numbers that appear in red.

1 Current 53 ECM flash error
2 Historic 53 ECM flash error
3 Current 54 ECM EEPROM error
4 Historic 54 ECM EEPROM error
5 Current 63 ECM serial data low
6 Current 63 ECM serial data open/high
7 Current 63 TSSM serial data low
8 Current 63 TSSM serial data open/high
9 Current 61 Loss of TSM/TSSM serial data
10 Current 14 Loss of all ECM serial data (state of health)10 24 Loss of vehicle speed10 33 Loss of vehicle inhibit motion10 43 Loss of powertrain security status
11 Current 33 System relay contacts open
12 Current 33 System relay coil high/shorted
13 Current 33 System relay coil open/low
14 Current 33 System relay contacts closed
15 Current 99 Incorrect password
16 Current 99 Missing password
17 Current 41 CKP sensor intermittent
18 Current 41 CKP sensor synch error
19 Current 11 TP sensor open/low
20 Current 11 TP sensor high
21 Current 12 MAP sensor open/low
22 Current 12 MAP sensor high
23 Current 14 ET sensor voltage low
24 Current 14 ET sensor open/high
25 Current 15 IAT sensor voltage low
26 Current 15 IAT sensor open/high
27 Current 24 Front ignition coil open/low
28 Current 25 Rear ignition coil open/low
29 Current 24 Front ignition coil high/shorted
30 Current 25 Rear ignition coil high/shorted
31 Current 24 Front cylinder combustion intermittent
32 Current 25 Rear cylinder combustion intermittent
33 Current 23 Front injector open/low
34 Current 32 Rear injector open/low
35 Current 23 Front injector high
36 Current 32 Rear injector high
37 Current 16 Battery voltage low
38 Current 16 Battery voltage high
39 Current 43 VSS sensor low
40 Current 43 VSS sensor high
41 Current N/A (no speedo code for this) Check engine light open/low NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON or CHECK ENGINE LAMP ON CONTINUOUSLY
42 Current N/A (no speedo code for this) Check engine light high NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON
43 Current 35 Tachometer low
44 Current 35 Tachometer high
45 Current 25 Rear cylinder no combustion
46 Current 24 Front cylinder no combustion
47 Current 34 Loss of idle speed control IDLE AIR CONTROL
48 Current 35 Accelerometer fault
49 Current 34 Starter output high
50 Current 25 Ignition enable output high
51 Current 21 Left turn output fault
52 Current 22 Right turn output fault
53 Current 11 Battery voltage high
54 Current 31 Alarm output low
55 Current 32 Alarm output high
56 Current 41 Ignition switch open/low
57 Historic 63 ECM serial data low
58 Historic 63 ECM serial data open/high
59 Historic 63 TSSM serial data low
60 Historic 63 TSSM serial data open/high
61 Historic 61 Loss of TSM/TSSM serial data
62 Historic 14 Loss of all ECM serial data (state of health)
63 Historic 33 System relay contacts open
64 Historic 33 System relay coil high/shorted
65 Historic 33 System relay coil open/low
66 Historic 33 System relay contacts closed
67 Historic 99 Incorrect password
68 Historic 99 Missing password
69 Historic 41 CKP sensor intermittent
70 Historic 41 CKP sensor synch error
71 Historic 11 TP sensor open/low
72 Historic 11 TP sensor high
73 Historic 12 MAP sensor open/low
74 Historic 12 MAP sensor high
75 Historic 14 ET sensor voltage low
76 Historic 14 ET sensor open/high
77 Historic 15 IAT sensor voltage low
78 Historic 15 IAT sensor open/high
79 Historic 24 Front ignition coil open/low
80 Historic 25 Rear ignition coil open/low
81 Historic 24 Front ignition coil high/shorted
82 Historic 25 Rear ignition coil high/shorted
83 Historic 24 Front cylinder combustion intermittent
84 Historic 25 Rear cylinder combustion intermittent
85 Historic 23 Front injector open/low
86 Historic 32 Rear injector open/low
87 Historic 23 Front injector high
88 Historic 32 Rear injector high
89 Historic 16 Battery voltage low
90 Historic 16 Battery voltage high
91 Historic 43 VSS sensor low
92 Historic 43 VSS sensor high
93 Historic N/A Check engine light open/low NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON or CHECK ENGINE LAMP ON CONTINUOUSLY
94 Historic N/A Check engine light high NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON
95 Historic 35 Tachometer low
96 Historic 35 Tachometer high
97 Historic 25 Rear cylinder no combustion
98 Historic 24 Front cylinder no combustion
99 Historic 34 Loss of idle speed control
100 Historic 35 Accelerometer fault
101 Historic 34 Starter output high
102 Historic 25 Ignition enable output high
103 Historic 21 Left turn output fault
104 Historic 22 Right turn output fault.
105 Historic 11 Battery voltage high
106 Historic 31 Alarm output low
107 Historic 32 Alarm output high
108 Historic 41 Ignition switch open/low
Try this, have you checked for spark?
________________
 
Thank you. I will try that. I had hoped I would not have to do that because the lights seem to blink so fast I have a lot of difficulty trying to catch them. When I did the ignition cycle 3x and push the odometer reset after the third cycle I did get a set of diagnostic codes in my odometer window. There were ten and they were all clear. It ended with Cal 03. I'm sorry to see you're in pain. I live with it after 2 back surgeries and an ankle surgery. Semper Fi and thanks.
 
I did as you suggested and jumped out the diagnostic link with a female spade tip. I turned on the ignition. The Engine light came on as always, then went out. It did not flash any codes whatsoever. Correct me if I am mistaken, but it seems I read somewhere that if you jump out the diagnostic link and the Engine light does not flash, then there are no codes stored. By way of being thorough I probably should have mentioned that I'm running a Power Commander III USB. Would this affect the result; ergo, do I need to take the Power Commander out of the circuit and plug the ECM harness directly back on to the ECM, or does it matter? I have not yet reinstalled the fuel tank after I removed it to clean the fuel lines and injectors so for all I know the cleaning may have fixed it (there was water trapped in the supply lines and the injectors were water wet) but before I install it back I am wanting to cover the bases while I still have easy access to the various components. Thanks and Semper Fi.
 
I did as you suggested and jumped out the diagnostic link with a female spade tip. I turned on the ignition. The Engine light came on as always, then went out. It did not flash any codes whatsoever. Correct me if I am mistaken, but it seems I read somewhere that if you jump out the diagnostic link and the Engine light does not flash, then there are no codes stored. By way of being thorough I probably should have mentioned that I'm running a Power Commander III USB. Would this affect the result; ergo, do I need to take the Power Commander out of the circuit and plug the ECM harness directly back on to the ECM, or does it matter? I have not yet reinstalled the fuel tank after I removed it to clean the fuel lines and injectors so for all I know the cleaning may have fixed it (there was water trapped in the supply lines and the injectors were water wet) but before I install it back I am wanting to cover the bases while I still have easy access to the various components. Thanks and Semper Fi.
If you have stored codes the TFI should not have any bearing on them IMO
 
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