Cutting the windshield
- Thread starter roundi
- Start date
Most of the answers asked on the forum can be answered in the self help forums.
Cutting A Windshield - Harley Davidson Community
Cutting A Windshield - Harley Davidson Community
roundi
Member
Sorry, missed the SelfHelp 
For getting the right windshield height, is the below method ok, or we have to take other input into consideration ?
WINDSHIELD HEIGHT: How to choose your height/width
1. If you have a stock , non-adjustable windshield, go to step #2. If your stock shield is mechanically adjustable, lower it to the bottom or lowest position. If your windshield is electrically adjustable (RT, LT, FJR, Connie 14) extend it about a quarter (25%) of the way up.
2. Get a measuring tape, straight edge, or two yardsticks.
3. Move your bike to a level spot.
4. Tape the yardstick to the center of the windshield using masking tape.
5. Sit on your bike in a normal riding position. From between your chin and no higher than your mouth use a straight edge or additional yardstick pointing towards the shield. Measure in a level line parallel with the ground to the yardstick taped on the shield. As an example if the straight edge from your chin to the taped yardstick on the shield measures about three inches above the top of the shield and it’s level, you would be best suited by a +3” taller shield. Simply put the top of the shield should be even with or just below your mouth. You can do this yourself but having an extra set of eyes is very helpful. Width is dependant on your body type, more robust riders will want more width for better torso protection, while a smaller rider may find that the stock shield works perfect. This is general rule of thumb and is effective for the majority of riders & bikes.
(http://www.ceebaileys.com/cycle/height-width.htm)
For getting the right windshield height, is the below method ok, or we have to take other input into consideration ?
WINDSHIELD HEIGHT: How to choose your height/width
1. If you have a stock , non-adjustable windshield, go to step #2. If your stock shield is mechanically adjustable, lower it to the bottom or lowest position. If your windshield is electrically adjustable (RT, LT, FJR, Connie 14) extend it about a quarter (25%) of the way up.
2. Get a measuring tape, straight edge, or two yardsticks.
3. Move your bike to a level spot.
4. Tape the yardstick to the center of the windshield using masking tape.
5. Sit on your bike in a normal riding position. From between your chin and no higher than your mouth use a straight edge or additional yardstick pointing towards the shield. Measure in a level line parallel with the ground to the yardstick taped on the shield. As an example if the straight edge from your chin to the taped yardstick on the shield measures about three inches above the top of the shield and it’s level, you would be best suited by a +3” taller shield. Simply put the top of the shield should be even with or just below your mouth. You can do this yourself but having an extra set of eyes is very helpful. Width is dependant on your body type, more robust riders will want more width for better torso protection, while a smaller rider may find that the stock shield works perfect. This is general rule of thumb and is effective for the majority of riders & bikes.
(http://www.ceebaileys.com/cycle/height-width.htm)
It's more what you feel comfortable with. Use some tape and tape an outline at the top of the shield where you think you would feel comfortable with and try it. Go from there, whet works for someone else may not work for you. Measure and try many times but only cut once :s
Cruiser5453
Member
The objective is to be sure that the windshield directs your airflow just above your head/helmet. Too high and you'll get buffeted by backwash. Too low and you'll have the wind in your face (along with bugs, rocks, etc).
roundi
Member
I Finally Did It !
It took me 2h: 30 min for the marking / 1h for cutting (was going very slow not to make mistakes) / 30 min sanding and cleaning up.
You are right that we need to feel confortable ! When I applied the above rule the cuting line was low, so I needed to raise the line by multiple trials.
Cheers.
It took me 2h: 30 min for the marking / 1h for cutting (was going very slow not to make mistakes) / 30 min sanding and cleaning up.
You are right that we need to feel confortable ! When I applied the above rule the cuting line was low, so I needed to raise the line by multiple trials.
Cheers.
Rider has his choice, doing it yourself is cool, but as Wildey says, if you are not so inclined it is perfectly acceptable to have a professional do it.
This is the fundamental choice we make everyday...the common thing is what ever maximizes your enjoyment of the ride..."Smiles per Mile" trumps all.
This is the fundamental choice we make everyday...the common thing is what ever maximizes your enjoyment of the ride..."Smiles per Mile" trumps all.