free website stats program Clutch adjustment issue | Page 2 | Harley Davidson Forums

Clutch adjustment issue

Indeed - cold, not cool. If you have to, just get up 15 or 20 minutes early and do it after it has sat ALL night.
 
DON'T make a Big Deal out of this adjustment.. IF DONE EXACTLY LIKE SAID it will be right...........

Sorry for all the caps BUT this is a VERY IMPORTANT adjustment and so often done Wrong ... AND IF done WRONG will cause Damage.....

YOU have it RIGHT..... SLOW down and DO IT Just like said......


The clutch handle SHOULD Grab Just where you said it DID after your adjustment........ at 1/2 turn out is the Best (my book) to open clutch plates and 3/4 of a turn Out MAX(like Smitty likes)...

The BEFORE you adjusted SHOWED You IT was TOO LOOSE of a clutch adjustment...Hard to shift (clutch rubbing its plates together and not Loose enough)...

Do you remember HOW much you turned it in to start with????..... This is VERY important to Notice when you adjust a clutch....
Most Don't LOOK before they adjust and Should.. Then you will know IF the clutch WAS way out...and yours probably WAS...

Now Note,,,,,,
Way out on the clutch handle is where I keep mine.... 1/2 turn IS what I use and YES IT takes time to get used to it....

the critical part of YOURS Now is DO you have 1/16 to 1/8 Open play at the handle lever at the cable???

IF yes it is good... Try it here and in time You will get used to the adjustment...

Smitty says HE Uses 3/4 of a turn OUT from FINGER tight against the clutch...

HIS clutch grabs FURTHER IN closer to the handlebar>>>>> HIS adjustment ends up IN CLOSER than yours at the position it grabs..... SO IF you adjust the clutch at 3/4 turn OUT from clutch (I use 1/2 and NO MORE than 3/4) IT will grab CLOSER to the handlebar....

This is what you are trying to do: get the clutch plates separated ENOUGH to shift easily BUT NOT slip when fully out...

Think here and see the further OUT the clutch grabs,,, at 1/2 turn out the EASIER on the shifting and easier on the clutch...easier to find Neutral...(1/2 turn out on clutch pack = Min out,,,,3//4 = Max out)

BUT if LESS than a 1/2 turn out It may cause the clutch to SLIP and do damage....SO the adjustment is CRITICAL......

Now you got it.....

again sorry for all the caps but this is VERY IMPORTANT to get RIGHT.....

signed....BUBBIE
 
I remember the first time I did this adjustment... seems daunting at first. Once I actually did it... piece of cake. I have to go with Bubbie on this one... 1/2 turn. I'm just afraid that at 3/4 turn, I'm not going to get enough space between discs... making shifting more difficult. Of course, that's JIMHO... YMMV.
 
I understand the part about being adjusted only when cold. 2 questions. Can the fluid be changed also while cold or should you open it up again after it is warm to drain fluid? Should the bike be upright or on jiffy stand?

Thanks
PaPa T
 
I get the oil hot prior to draining it helps ensure it has sloshed around a bit and captured most of the contaminants and it will flow out better
Bike upright to drain oil
I tend to drain oil at the end of a day then refill, and do all my cold settings in the morning however i would replace the cover overnight but leave the bike upright

Brian
 
I get the oil hot prior to draining it helps ensure it has sloshed around a bit and captured most of the contaminants and it will flow out better
Bike upright to drain oil
I tend to drain oil at the end of a day then refill, and do all my cold settings in the morning however i would replace the cover overnight but leave the bike upright

Brian

I change my fluids the exact same way. The mixing and the lower viscosity from the heat make a hot fluid change the best. I try and a target a Friday for draining fluids, greasing, safety check etc, and Saturday morning for clutch adjustment. That way I can get in a short test ride and stores are still open if I needs parts.
 
Back
Top