cams for 103 motors

Discussion in 'Trikes' started by stubbs34, Sep 2, 2013.

  1. stubbs34

    stubbs34 Active Member

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    MY question is this: After doing my stage one setup;(true duels,air filter,Fuelie map) I would like to put a larger cam for better take off and thru the gears running. There are 4 different cams you can go with. Any suggestions? especially from people who have a different cam, thank you.:newsmile105:
     
  2. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    Stubbs,

    For me to answer, You need to tell me more about How you ride.. Do you want the power to come on Early or Late?

    Do you JUST want a bolt-in set of cams and needing no other work on the motor?
    ****************
    The stock intake closes at 30* on out TC bikes...

    Anything with earlier closing numbers like se255's at 25* will hold back more compression making power early and a cam closing at 36* and UP, will need RPM to develop power and NOT have the early power as the Cam to the LEFT of 30*...

    Going Bigger is not just a cam change.... Going to the RIGHT of 30* intake close REQUIRES a plan and Other things to INCREASE Lost compression.

    BIG Cams (to the Right of 30*) need other things to Increase the Lost compression to bring BACK the low end Lost...

    Further to the right the more needs to be done... NEEDED is raising the compression ratio (many ways do do that)...

    You can't just install a cam to get low end torque/power GOING onto the right side of 30*

    There IS some leeway but NOT Much....

    Much more to it than just a Cam Change.

    **************

    Now, going to the LEFT of 30*, there are many bolt in cams that will work fine.

    Low end torque and not needing to use PR valves.

    SnS 551 come to mind as they a easy start feature.

    The se255 will work but depending on you 103 build and Elevation running them is a important part to Know...

    Running my TC built here at 4400 feet, I really don't need PR Valves but when I go to sea level I do.

    Get back with More information if you want me to help further...

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  3. stubbs34

    stubbs34 Active Member

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    thanks again for the reply. I don't ride hard and do more cruising under 65mph. I live in Michigan and ride alot in Ohio,Indiana,Canada. Total weight pulling with me and wiffee and bike is around 1450lbs. It just seems sluggish thru all gears. I try and ride 2500rpm between gears and shift at around 3000 or so.I do alot of 45 and 55mph cruising.Love ridin the country roads to wherever. My 103cc 2010 Triglide with just a Stage 1 setup w/duals be sufficent? and forget about the cam? sounds like the left of 30 would be good for me..if I should go with a cam also.
     
  4. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    You'd be happy your way or the 551 way...

    MORE low end power is what you need... Simple Bolt In SnS 551 :D

    Just My Way...

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  5. coopernicus

    coopernicus Junior Member Contributor

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    Just my non knowegable input. I know a guy with the same setup as you in a 103 inch triglide. He weighs well over 350 and his better half is a full size too. He did the ac, exhaust and tuner also. Then he added the SE 255 cams and said that was esactly what the bike needed. I think he rides like you mostly shifting in lower rpms and 2 up sometimes pulling a trailer.
     
  6. Breeze3at

    Breeze3at Well-Known Member

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    All of the cams mentioned are good cams, but many were designed for 88 cu. in. motors. Exceptions are the S&S 551 and Andrews 48 which were designed for 96 cu. in. Andrews has also designed the 57 cam for the increased size of the 103 & 110 engines. Target was a very flat torque curve from idle to 5k rpm.
    There are so many good torque cams on the market now. I suggest that you read the website of each manufacturer and what cam they recommend for specific applications.

    Bubbie's advice is sound. :small3d026:
     
  7. stubbs34

    stubbs34 Active Member

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    Since this will be my winter-(something to do project), I might as well put in the SnS 551 cam along with the rest of doing the Stage 1 stuff. Vance & Hines Oval Exhaust seems to be the good fit for under the Trike along with the Power Commander Fuel Pak (plug it in and let it do the tuning) and get rid of that HOT CAT! Was thinking of also putting in Gears instead of the Chain driven Adjuster too. If I am doing anything wrong, please let me know. I am always opened for advice. :60:plus and loving retirement. Stubbs
     
  8. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    Stubbs.

    If you are talking about going Gear drive cams? IF your crank run-out is good and under .002 you should be able to do so.

    Our hydraulic system for tensioners is a good one though. I do a lot (all) of my stuff and decided to let it go with the chain cams and the tensioner stock in our Newer TC bikes.

    I REALLY think Just doing you cams to 551 will be a Happy Riding Experience for you.:D

    I have heard a lot of GOOD about that cam and no need for head or PR valves installed.

    Keep us informed.:s

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  9. stubbs34

    stubbs34 Active Member

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    Bubbie, I do get ahead of myself at times. It must be the old days of drag racing. I will take your advice, and thanks for the reply's and advice. Another happy happy old biker.:60:
     
  10. FLTR2008TRIKE

    FLTR2008TRIKE Member

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    This a bolt in cam option for your consideration

    I attached a dyno sheet for this new cam design that is a bolt in for the 103" engine. You can run your stock pushrods if you choose. This new cam design is designed to keep your valve train quiet. This dyno sheet is from Roeders in Ohio, who did a independent tune and the bike was run in 4th gear

    Cam specs

    Exhaust Open: 49.5 BBDC
    Exhaust Close: 3.5 ATDC
    Exhaust Duration: 233 @ .053
    Exhaust Lift: .522

    Intake Open: 17.5 BTDC
    Intake Close: 39.5 ABDC
    Intake Duration: 237 @ .053
    Intake Lift: .561

    Advance: 6 degrees
    Overlap: 21 degrees
    Center Line: 101 degrees
    Lobe Separation Angle: 107 degrees

    This cam is for guys who intend to do head work later down the road, your curves may be higher up on the graph as long as compression is kept close to stock and your head porter keeps the intake to exhaust flow ratios the same as stock.

    There is no website for you too look at this cam at this time. But if you have any questions or want to speak with one of the cam designers let me know.
     

    Attached Files: