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Cam tensioner and cam replacement

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6shootr

Member
I have a 2003 FLHRI Road King. 27,000 miles on stock Tc88 with V&H Big Radius 2+2, Stage 1 intake and powercommander III with Fuelmoto tune. I may want to go 95 kit further down the road but not right now. I ride single 75% of the time with girlfriend riding with the other 25%. Bike has been trouble free since I bought it. The only reason for cam change is the troublesome stock tensioners. Here is what I've asked the quote to include.

(1) 25284-08 Kit, Hydraulic Cam plate $429.99
(1) 25149-00 SE 204 Cam Kit $299.99
(1) 17045-99B Gasket Kit, Cam Service $47.99
(4) 18538-99B Tappet Lifter $29.99
(1) 25285-08 Kit, Cam Spacers $17.99
(1) 24017-10 Kit, Cam Bearing Asy, TC88 $14.99
(1) 25533-99A Cam Drive Gear Retention $6.99
Total Parts Rounded = $940.00

(1) Lot Install Labor Rounded = $500.00
Labor covers the reuse of the stock pushrods.

Approx. $1,400.00 total.

I have read everything this forum has to offer on cams, cam tensioners, cam plates, etc. I have really trusted the expertise of this forum for help on other projects over the years. Everything from grip and switch housings to wiring. I know there might be better cams out there but have dealer money to use and want a reliable ride in the end.

I'm close to biting the bullet on this and have a few questions for the people on here.

1) Is this considered a fair dealer installed price? I don't have a press or way of dealing with the bearings.

2) Can I get by with a map by Fuelmoto or can the price for the dynotune be justified? Dyno tune would cost an additional $350.00.

3) Without cost differences in labor vs equipment, what are the pro's and con's of stock vs adjustable pushrods?

Thanks to everyone in advance.
 
Personally I would go with the adjustable push rods...

I never like taking off the top covers for the in and out of the Old HD push-rods Just so I can Re-use them.. I Prefer the adjustable SE slender tapper... Just the way I like to do things.. IF you ever have to remove a lifter you can do so EASILY with adjustables.. OR get into the cam chest without taking off the top covers/tank again.

There Should be a little OFF that 500$$ for NOT having to take off the Tank and valve cover area to re=use the Old push-rods,,, If NO oil leaks in the valve covers NOW then I would NOT tear into them.

As far as Cost? It is close to fair... You might get another BID from another HD shop and SAY you are getting BIDS for the job... Sometimes you can get Labor Lowered a bit..

I noticed you said ONE lifter? you should get 4 new ones. and by bearings : the Full style in the engine side for the cams NOT ENA but Torrington style Full rollers. Not expensive just Better

I think you could do better by a FULL KIT and go for the 95" now instead of later. You'd have a full new top-end and a big Boost in power....
I would like to uses a dyno but that 350$$ plus the 150$$ for the adjustables in its self would pay for the 95" Piston Conversion .. Then You COULD go with the HD solid push rods back in.. Saving that cost to go full 95" Just by those TWO things... Yes you can do the remap of the fueler yourself and save...


Just a few thoughts from me.

signed....BUBBIE
 
My top end doesn't leak a bit so yes I'm reluctant to have the top cracked to reuse the stock pushrods but have heard stories that the adjustables sometimes either loosen or the nuts break leaving a person stranded.

In your opinion, if I go a 95" right away how will that affect reliability? I would welcome the power but not at the cost of reliability. My bike hasn't let me down once in 20K miles and I don't want to chance pushing too far and finding a can't trust it on a trip.
 
I have a 03 FLHT and I went 95 about 10,000 miles back. Adjustable timesaver pushrods, 570 SS cam gear setup, SS carb, port,polished, shaved heads and some other stuff. I have not lost one bit of reliability. This bike is fun to ride and I would suggest the upgrade to anyone. :taunt
 
6shootr said:
My top end doesn't leak a bit so yes I'm reluctant to have the top cracked to reuse the stock pushrods but have heard stories that the adjustables sometimes either loosen or the nuts break leaving a person stranded.

In your opinion, if I go a 95" right away how will that affect reliability? I would welcome the power but not at the cost of reliability. My bike hasn't let me down once in 20K miles and I don't want to chance pushing too far and finding a can't trust it on a trip.
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The Adjustable push-rods of today are good.. Some have replaced the Nuts on a few ??? model brand??, saying they had problems with Breaking lock nut..

I use the HD SE slender tappers, I Never had a problem with them. A lot of the nut breakage is because OVER TIGHTENING is the reason I would think of.. IF a nut was tempered wrong I have to think it NOT to be a problem today as they would of replaced them..

I would give FULLY reliable on the Adjustables.

As far as the 95 inch, It is fully reliable as well,,,, Never would think it a problem.

I have Many HDs over the years and Always made it souped up and NEVER a problem going Like the build suggested to you..
NOW IF you go with Huge cams and valve work and head work to match,,,, You might be in for a problem IF it isn't made for street use...

I made several different builds on my 2ooo FXDS and Never had problems when going to a Hot Rod like above..

the BUILD you have and are considering to go with WILL be NO problem on being reliable... THOUSANDS of HD's Have gone bigger With NO problems of reliability When Done Right...(like yours will be)

so you should Benefit and be VERY street-able/touring-able bike when finished.

just my way..

signed....BUBBIE
 
Yes watch how you tighten the lock nuts. I think that the torque is around 14 or 15 ft pounds. I had a nut split in half. I replaced all the nuts with custom stainless steel nuts. The original nuts are very thin across the flats.
Kemo
 
kemo said:
Yes watch how you tighten the lock nuts. I think that the torque is around 14 or 15 ft pounds. I had a nut split in half. I replaced all the nuts with custom stainless steel nuts. The original nuts are very thin across the flats.
Kemo
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Kemo.

What brand were your adjustable P-rods.?

signed....BUBBIE
 
Bubbie they are the SE tapered adjustable push rods. From what I have read it happens quite frequently.
Kemo
 
6shootr - I'm copying your specs to a friend of mine who owns an indy shop. He's a righteous man and will tell you if the prices are right. Get back to you...
 
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