another oily air cleaner

Discussion in 'Oil' started by 2000classic, Jun 16, 2009.

  1. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    2000 UC. Heavy mist down side of bike after a long ride coming from air cleaner. Bike is not overfilled on oil. Already changed out the breather assy with no change. About 20k ago had dealer speedshop install Andrews cams with geardrive. Bike now has 49K on it and I'm thinking my oil problem may be pump related. So thought I would replace pump as an upgrade and if it fixes the problem, great. Looking thru the service manual at the pump install, it does not mention using the pump alignment pins. Just says to install the 4 bolts till they touch the cam plate, then back off 1/4 turn. As you turn over the engine, begin to gradually tighten. So any thoughts on not using the pins? Also, something else other than the pump as far as the oil problem that I should look at first?
     
  2. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    You can align it with the pins or the way you explained above. I would turn it over with the rear wheel instead of the starter after removing the spark plugs in 5th gear
     
  3. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    Thanks Glider, that restores my faith in the manual. Would you agree that the scavenge side of the pump may be my problem? I have no mist on a 20 mile ride, but after 75 or so you start to see it. Also when I did the breathers, everthing looked very clean in the rocker boxes with no sign of oil pooling up there. Forgot to mention that oil pressure after warm up is 30 at speed and 10 or so at idle. Thanks for any input!
     
  4. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    It could be the scavenge side or just an alignment that is needed.
     
  5. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    Thanks Glider. Going to open it up this weekend. Just wanted some confirmation that I'm going in the direction.:)
     
  6. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    OK, I did go in the right direction with the oil pump. After the gear driven cams were installed, I had a whine at start up. It would go away as the bike warmed up. I assumed it was the gears. Well, looking back on it, I now realize the whine got worse and the oil down the side of the bike did also on the longer rides. I did not connect the two things until I installed the new oil pump. The whine is totally gone and I have over 300 miles on since the install and no more oil problem. As I said, looking back it would seem the shop that did the work did not do a proper job on pump alignment.
    One question tho on the adj. push rods. I could not find any paperwork on them and don't know the brand. Thought I remembered reading somewhere about the lifters having about .200 in. of travel and so shoot for about .100 in. of collapse. I put a rod up against a dial indicator and it took about 3 1/2 turns to obtain .100 in. Do you feel what I did will be OK, or should I redo some other way? Bike seems to be running great!:)
     
  7. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    3 1/2 turns should be in the ball park but the proper adjustment depends on the threads per inch of the brand of pushrod used to determining the TPI . Different brands have different TPI.

    Take a look here to see what I mean.

    Adjusting Pushrods - Harley Davidson Community
     
  8. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    Yup, followed that link and found the .200 in. number that I mentioned earlier. (Lengthen the adjuster screw by hand until it makes tight contact with the seat in the hydraulic lifter. Extend it further by 3 to 4 full turns. I'll let Andrews explain and you can decide on your own adjustment. "Andrews adjusters are manufactured with (5/16 x 32) threads so 3 turns will create an adjusted length of .093 inches. (3 x 1/32 = .093 inches). Each turn extends the adjustment by .032 inches. As long as the hydraulic unit and pushrod seat can move up and down and not touch the top retaining ring or "bottom out" during operation, the pushrod length has been correctly set and the lifters will function normally." Andrews advises to adjust their TW "88" pushrods 3.5 to 4 full turns.) So I think the 3 1/2 turns that gave me .100 in. collapse should be good. I'm going to keep looking thru my records tho to see if I can come up with the brand of pushrod and maybe instructions. Thanks Glider. As always you've been a big help.:D

    New problem! After 2 wks of riding and about 700 miles of riding with new pump working great, now am having pressure problem at start-up. Bike sits about 10 hrs. between rides. Start it and the oil press. goes up to 60psi. Blip the throttle, and the press. falls. First time, it fell to 0psi, scared me, so tapped the throttle again and the press. came back to 32 as it should. It may have come back on its own, don't know. Next 2 times, it went to 60, tapped the throttle, and when it started to fall, kept throttle at a high idle, and press. came down to 30 and holds. Press. remains good after initial start-up. Do a restart and press. acts norm. So, something get into press. relief valve causing it to stick? Can valve be removed without removing the cam plate? Just clean and reinstall or replace something? Other causes? Thanks!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 2, 2009
  9. dolt

    dolt Senior Member Contributor

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    The pressure relief valve is in the cam plate so you can remove the spring and valve without removing the cam plate; just remove the cover, the roll pin, tap the plate and the valve should drop out. Could you have a malfunctioning guage or sending unit?
     
  10. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    First time it happened and the gauge went to 0, oil lite also came on till I cracked the throttle, gauge went up and lite went out, so I think the gauge is OK. While it would be great if it was the sending unit, I don't think it would behave that way. Gauge shows 0 after ign. switch is turned on. Goes to 60+ at start up, slight crack of the throttle sends it back to 32+ as it should be. Seems if it was the sending unit, it would be more inconsistent, but always gives correct readings after initial start up 60+. What do you think? Would you still suggest sending unit install since it is so easy? Or go in and give by-pass valve a cleaning or replacement?