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96 ci Cam chain

Mongo1958

Junior Member
96 ci Cam chain:

I checked out a cam chain thread, lots of good info for the older bikes.

Has there been any reports or issues of the cam chain tentioner in a 96 ci engine going bad? The reason I'm asking, the noise seems to have gotten a bit louder. On the other hand, I've eliminated some other noises and it could be that the cam chain noise is the only one left.
 
Some of the members will chime in but I'm pretty sure you have the new hyd, tensioner and a different compound shoe. You should be good to go.
 
Some of the members will chime in but I'm pretty sure you have the new hyd, tensioner and a different compound shoe. You should be good to go.


Yes, the '07 and newer cam chains and tensioners are different, and I have only "heard" (not verified) of problems with them.

So you don't get confused, this adjustment is for the primary chain, not cam chains, but dbmg pointed it out as it could be a source of noise that you are noticing.
 
Yes, the '07 and newer cam chains and tensioners are different, and I have only "heard" (not verified) of problems with them.

So you don't get confused, this adjustment is for the primary chain, not cam chains, but dbmg pointed it out as it could be a source of noise that you are noticing.

On my 09, I had noise and it turned out to be the chain-case... Tightened right up and No noise using the method ...

I have had my cams and all out a couple of times and do plan a change in that area again...I have Never found enough wear to replace the New Style cam tensioners. I had 25,000 and they looked great.... A LITTLE pit on the face of outside one.

I did replace it (not needing replaced but did) Inside one showed NO wear at all.

I will let all know How they look again after apart. 34,000 miles now.

Quiet , no noise even with using the SE255's...

stay tuned.

signed....BUBBIE
 
I have tried that before and it worked to some degree. The noise I'm hearing is coming from the right side. I put my face right in front of the cam bell cover and the noise is loud and clear.

"On my 09, I had noise and it turned out to be the chain-case... Tightened right up and No noise using the method ..."

Bubbie,
Please explain, cuz I'm ignorant. What chain case and what did you do to it?
The Cam chain cover?
 
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Primary chain is in on left side. inside primary case... AUTO tensioner on the newer bikes like stated before.... I took my bike out and in 3rd gear(30/45), I kept the throttle PULLING strong (45mph) on the bike and Pushed on the rear brake a few times,(on-off quickly and sharply) actually pumped hard but Don't hold it on, the Jerk bump of a quick but firm tap on the REAR brake is what helps the auto adjuster Move where it should and get out the loose tension on the chain..

Giving more fuel to keep bike going while Hitting the rear brake sharply on- off.. Again, NOT Holding it on..

This will Snap-pull the chain tight and the auto adjuster takes up the loose Slack..

There IS another described Thread in self help somewhere to read...

Think about this. The engine is PULLING the bike forward Hard and the Brake is slowing the bike Hard,,, so the slack in the primary chain is at it LOOSEST on the bottom side and TIGHTEST on the top side.. The HITTING of brake unsticks (If Stuck) adjuster and it Will take up the needed slack...

This is done IF the Primary auto-chain adjuster is Stuck or not ratcheting-up properly as mine was, and right off the show room floor....:(

Never have had much noise or a problem since with too loose a primary chain after unstuck and it seems to work like it should today.. AUTOMATICALLY

NOT all bikes NEED this done.. But mine mine did.

signed....BUBBIE
 
Primary chain is in on left side. inside primary case... AUTO tensioner on the newer bikes like stated before.... I took my bike out and in 3rd gear(30/45), I kept the throttle PULLING strong (45mph) on the bike and Pushed on the rear brake a few times,(on-off quickly and sharply) actually pumped hard but Don't hold it on, the Jerk bump of a quick but firm tap on the REAR brake is what helps the auto adjuster Move where it should and get out the loose tension on the chain..

Giving more fuel to keep bike going while Hitting the rear brake sharply on- off.. Again, NOT Holding it on..

This will Snap-pull the chain tight and the auto adjuster takes up the loose Slack..

There IS another described Thread in self help somewhere to read...

Think about this. The engine is PULLING the bike forward Hard and the Brake is slowing the bike Hard,,, so the slack in the primary chain is at it LOOSEST on the bottom side and TIGHTEST on the top side.. The HITTING of brake unsticks (If Stuck) adjuster and it Will take up the needed slack...

This is done IF the Primary auto-chain adjuster is Stuck or not ratcheting-up properly as mine was, and right off the show room floor....:(

Never have had much noise or a problem since with too loose a primary chain after unstuck and it seems to work like it should today.. AUTOMATICALLY

NOT all bikes NEED this done.. But mine mine did.

signed....BUBBIE

Ah, OK! When you said case I was not sure what side you were talking about. I've always performed the above in first gear. I'll try it in 3rd and see what happens.

Thanks:bigsmiley23:
 
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