88 electraglide

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by philsicle, Mar 14, 2012.

  1. philsicle

    philsicle Member

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    i have twelve volts at the on off switch. when i turn the switch on, i lose all power everywhere. where do i start? i checked switch. it checks. i disconnect white wire from relay and unplug orange wire to solenoid and my switch sends power down the wires. hook em back up, no power, none. help?
     
  2. revok1200

    revok1200 Active Member

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    How old is the battery, and are you sure it is good?
     
  3. HDDon

    HDDon Experienced Member Contributor Retired Moderators

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    If your bike has the old style rotary type switch, there is a brass bar that makes contact and this bar can be worn enough so that it does not allow the current to pass.
     
  4. philsicle

    philsicle Member

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    i had the original neck switch disconnected, a new one installed by the dealership. this battery is only just a year old. this bike has been chewing up batteries. if my solenoid was fried would that kill power to the entire bike?

    appreciate all input, thanks
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 14, 2012
  5. HDDon

    HDDon Experienced Member Contributor Retired Moderators

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    When you last replaced the battery did you check the output from the voltage regulator?
     
  6. philsicle

    philsicle Member

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    No I didn't. I found the tests that are online. If the regulator was bad would it ground out and kill all the power? Could this be the issue?
     
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Short across the solenoid carefully, does the starter work? I would take a good look at the solenoid, You say you are frying batteries? Check ALL your wiring from the kill switch and ignition switch to the starter, Be sure to check the main breaker as well This will be a good starting point, You have to find why the bike is over charging as well http://www.officialharleyparts.com/harley/1988-93_flhs_889.jpg here is a wiring diagram for a FLHS it may be close to what you have
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2012
  8. karlsbike

    karlsbike Active Member

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    Hi
    It sounds like a short somewhere - I'd start by looking at the wiring AFTER the on/off switch after trying Jack's solenoid test.
    Use temporary wiring, disconnecting/connecting orginal wiring as you go
    - from on/off switch to relay
    - if not ok; replace relay
    - if not ok; replace from relay to starter.
    The battery is directly connected to the starter, and to the solenoid thru the relay, so you should also check these wires if above fails.
    Good luck
     
  9. philsicle

    philsicle Member

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    I did the volt test on the voltage regulator, spun the starter. opened the solenoid and it was a bit pitted. cleaned that up. opened horn, high beams, starter, and kill switches, sprayed up good with electrical cleaner. there is a little plastic black fixture with five prongs splitting to solenoid up to the front. i did continuity test on this according to diagragm on it. two pins zero out, the others do not. this thing hangs next to a relay on the oil resovoir. does anyone know what this is? is this some kind of main breaker? should those other three prongs zero out. it is kind of a goofy config on those three pins. checked the wire harness fairly thoroughly and it looks pretty good. should i start replacing wires? i still have no power after i flip main switch. when i unplug white wire which i think is accessories and unplug the orange wire to solenoid relay, i get voltage down those wires. still dumbfounded. started checking light bulbs abd sockets. cleaning vontacts on all bulbs.... whaqt about a stator. would this fry? is there a test i can do on the two prongs coming out of lower motor casing? all my relays are ohming out good!
     
  10. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    http://www.hdtalking.com/archive/t-741.html The main breaker could be what you see by the oil tank