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2009 Road Glide steering head adjustment

R

Retrop

Active Member
After removing the fork instrument bezel, tachometer, speedometer and plastic pieces on the forks I am at a standstill. The 2009 Touring Bike service manual says to "loosen the fork stem nut" and then to fashion a bearing adjustment tool from a 16" long piece of steel rod. I have done both but can not see the actual adjuster nut itself.

Am I blind or does that top bracket have to come off too? The manual makes no mention of having to remove the top bracket so either I am missing something here or the manual just fails to mention that the adjuster nut is under the top bracket. I was hoping that with the long adjustment tool I could snake it in and tap on the adjustment nut to tighten it up. What am I doing wrong here?
 
It's difficult to see. If you look right under the top triple tree, you'll see the serrated nut up there. It doesn't take much movement of the nut to bring the front end into spec.
 
Hi Glider, Does the serrated nut require a special tool?

My RG Started popping in the front. First I thought it was the pads since I just changed them. Then after doing reading here I realized I hit a pothole recently and now need to tighten the head. My manual says 60-80 lbs, do you know of any changes to that?

Thanks
Bob
 
There is a special tool but you can also use a long thin punch with a small hammer to tap it so it can be adjusted. It doesn't require much movement to get it adjusted and care should be taken not to over tighten it too.
 
Roadwarrior said:
Hi Glider, Does the serrated nut require a special tool?

My RG Started popping in the front. First I thought it was the pads since I just changed them. Then after doing reading here I realized I hit a pothole recently and now need to tighten the head. My manual says 60-80 lbs, do you know of any changes to that?

Thanks
Bob
Click to expand...

The 60 - 80 lbs of tourqe spec is for the fork stem nut not the bearing adjuster nut . Don't foget to bend the tabs back to lock in the fork stem nut when done with the adjustment . From what I understand the bearing adjuster nut just adjust the fork swing , the tighter the nut the stiffer the swing of the forks , the looser the nut is the less resistance in the swing of the forks . I can't understand how the front fork would loosen up by hitting a pot hole because the fork stem nut is tourqed at the factory & is locked in with the tabs on the locking plate , a steering head bearing problem would cause problems though .
 
I believe my problem is the steering bearing. I am getting a clunking noise when using the front breaks. Like Retop I am at a point now that I am looking at the top of the tree and and wondering do I remove the top of the tree or Can I really get under it to adjust the bearing adjuster nut.

So It looks like I have to remove it or the fairing because I can't even feel the adjuster nut when I try to feel for it.

Any thought that might help?

Happy Trails
Bob
 
Yes got service and parts manuals, but to follow it I have to remove my forks to get at the bearing adjuster nut. It doesn't decribe just the task of getting at it and adjusting it.

So Now that the sun finally came out today in Boston I hoping to get it done by just taking off the top of the tree, if thats possible.
 
My forks and setup must be a little different. There was a procedure for the "Fall Away" in my manual. The top tree did not have to be removed. There is a space under the upper tree which always you to tap the grand nut with a long flat pointed punch. The upper tree pinch bolts Must be loose. It was very simply and straight forward on my FXDL Dyna. I am sure the Fairings make a difference..
 
Well, Found one of the fork nuts was able turn by hand, and I got over a full turn out of the bearing adjusting nut. Removing the top of the tree was the only way to do this.


Time to put it together and take it for a test ride...........
 
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