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2008 FXSTC Softail Won't Start!

Ok.. Let me start out with this..

Hello everyone! New to the site and forum. I have been riding for many years and I live in Albuquerque, New Mexico. My newest ride is a 2008 FXSTC Softail Custom that I have had since brand new. All I have ever had to do to it other than the accessories and upgrades I have done since I bought it was replace the battery and the tires. Of course the oils have been changed 4 times including the break in oil change. Synthetic only since that first change. Now. As of this past November 11, 2019 I have owned the bike for 11 years. However. Due to my disability issues I don't get to ride her near as much as I would like. To this point.. My two tone red HD FXSTC has less than 4,000 actual miles on it!

I replaced the tires because the New Mexico sun LOVES to eat Dunlop tires. They had plenty of tread but they also had plenty of cracks and clear sunburn on the areas the covers did not cover. The battery.. Well that's a gimme. I have had to replace it 3 times during the past 11 years because they are not meant to sit for very long periods of time even if they do have a trickle charger on them. That and most are only good for up to 2, maybe 3 years and only warranted for one.

Last year I put a new battery in her and since then she has run great. Started every time without any issues but of course I was getting out to ride more than I had been just to make sure everything kept working.

Here is what has been tearing up my days and ruining my riding time with the warmer weather of spring!

A couple of weeks ago I uncovered her, disconnected the trickle charger, and backed her out of the shed and started her up.. Fired right off. Let her idle a bit. At this point it had been 3 weeks or so since I had her out. Donned my gloves and skidlid and put her in gear. Pulled out of the drive way and rode off to see sights. 2 hours later I was home. Left her in the driveway while I took my gloves, jacket and helmet inside. Opened the gate and shed to pull her back inside and went to bring her up. I unlocked the ignition, turned it on. Lights came on as usual. Hit the run and start buttons and she fired up like before. Suddenly she shut down and the lights went out including the speedo and info bar on the console.

At first I thought the main fuse. So. I pulled the seat, checked the fuse but it was ok. I cycled the ignition switch to off and back on. Nothing. I turned it back to accessory and the tail light came on. That was it... Nothing else worked. I checked both key fob batteries. They had good voltage but I replaced them just to make sure. Still no power in run.

Has anyone else had this happen? I have tried changing the relays for the fuel pump and starter, I have even replaced the fuel pump, filter, lines and such in case it was a fuel pump problem that caused the power loss. The original fuel pump had some nasty external corrosion so I thought this could be a cause if this was internal as well. This has not made for any joy. I can get the pump to hum and move fuel by bypassing the dead run side but that only shows it is working. I have taken the ignition switch out and cleaned it, refinished the contacts for better fit, and contact, and a bit of dielectric grease for good measure.

She will not power up the run circuit and will not start. Can anyone help me figure this out? I am a DAV, Disabled Veteran and I was just getting ready to let her go for sale so she can have an owner who can ride her the way she is needing ridden. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I am about as tapped out over this as I can be now.

Thank you all for your time and kind consideration.

Leo D
Leo,
Thank You Very Much For Your Service.
 
After reading this again I will say that this sounds like an ignition switch problem. No power out to the run side is that correct?
I don't think it's a bad starter, you can put it in neutral than run a jump wire to the contact for the blade of the solenoid and it should energize the starter.
 
The OP will have to remove the oil tank to remove the starter and it's a messy job and not much fun;:( I would not do it unless absolutely necessary.The tool to R/R the oil vent/supply and return lines is that little plastic chingadera that come with the Rogue complete oil change kit and is the same push/lock tool Ford require to remove A/C and oil lines.

Drain the oil tank, remove seat and battery, chain case cover, exhaust, fender extension (easier if rear tire is pulled back out of the way), remove fuse panel and to bolts that fasten fuse panel to oil tank, remove battery box, move fuse panel around the get out of the way, unhook vent and supply return lines, etc. etc. I might have missed something but you get the picture; it's a very time consuming process and one that will have most of you speaking in tongues the first time.:mad: I have done it several times so I am mentally prepared for the next time but doesn't make it any more pleasant and exercise.

I can zerox the pages from my '05 service manual if necessary and email them to the OP. I would also suggest acquiring a few of the push/lock connectors before starting as they are easily broken.;)
 
Hello everyone. Sorry I have been gone so long. There was a family health issue that kept me away and away from working on my bike. So. There have been no changes other than my most recent re-aligning my time and trying to get back to my life. After just over 2 years of fighting cancer our youngest daughter passed away leaving us with her daughter to raise in her place most willingly I will add. We spent the last few months getting that part of our life in order. Having a 10 year old in the house has been bringing on the flashbacks.

I have just gotten back into this subject. I again thank everyone for their input and suggestions. As yet. No luck on an actual HD shop manual. No critters have chewed any wiring. And other than a possible issue with the speedometer not communicating with the ECM
or the alarm system having something to do with the "No Power" on the run side. The actual ignition (Keyed Lock) component is just
as good as new. No wear, No dirt, No corrosion. Voltage STILL supplies to the tail light in the AUX position but power just stops at the RUN side not powering up any dash lights OR the speedometer. And STILL No response from ANY lights in RUN.

I found a ground wire for the aftermarket fog lights broken from the grounding ring but that's not a part of the main electrical system.

I will try to be back far more frequently since I need to get Red fixed and running right so I can sell her. I just don't have the heart or inclination with what my wife is going through to keep the bike and let it waste away.

Thanks again everyone.
Leo D
 
I really need help getting her running again. And after all the expenses over the past almost 3 years I/we cannot afford to pay the dealer to fix her.

Thank you
 
Sorry for your loss and the pain you and your wife are going through. If there's a bright spot it's having your granddaughter in your life, i'm sure that was some comfort to your daughter.
Hopefully you figure out the problem with your scoot so you can get some normalcy back in your life.
 
I'm so sorry to hear of your loss Leo. Hopefully the bike project can help you and your family settle back into a bit of normalcy. Life can sure hand us a bad deal. :(
 
Are you saying ONE side of your ignition switch is live; and the other side is dead?
As in: battery power on the Line side and nada on the load side?
 
Hello biscuit,
Yes. The tail light/auxiliary side of the switch powers up and turns on the tail lights but the run/start side
does nothing. No power at all and I took the ignition switch apart and checked, cleaned and put new DI
Electric in it. There was no wear, no corrosion and no broken parts or springs so the switch is NOT the
cause. I am thinking that it may be an alarm system crash or fault since the alarm is NOT working at all.

I had not noticed this when I first started chasing these problems. I started with the usual. Battery charge
which was good, fuses and relays. All good. Found 2 broken ground wires but they where both part of an
aftermarket accessory (Fog and Driving Lights) so not part of the OEM HD harness.

I just got myself one of those heavy duty bike jacks that rockers the bike up vertically from the rear swing
arm so that I can access the alarm and siren modules. I will start with checking them now and after the
9 volt is changed in the siren and batteries both changed out in the remote fobs so I know they are all
NEW. I will reinstall the relays and main fuse and see if the power comes back on for the start/run side.

I am waiting an OEM service manual to come so for now I am using just good ol mechanic's common
sense.. Or suggestions of common sense... Frustration is still an issue..
 
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