Good choice - You will ove them!
This may or may not be all inclusive...
Materials list:
Bars
Heavy duty riser bushings (the stock ones will wobble too much with the extra weight of the big bars)
Clutch, Idle, and Throttle cables, and brake line (I suggest Magnum Shielding, google it)
Bottle of brake fluid (Use required DOT number labled on your master cylinder)
1 Quart Spectro 6speed 75-140 tranny fluid
Tranny cover gasket
Roll of 18 gage and roll of 16 gage electrical wire.
Soldering gun and solder
Heat gun and shrink tubing (get some small stuff for the individual wires, and some bigger for the whole wire bundles)
Measuring: I would mount the new bars then use a peice of firm wire that is bendable and "make" a dummy clutch cable. Make sure it has a nice flowing arc between where it mounts to the frame and the lever. Compare the length to your stock cable. I'm estimating it will be around 10-12" over stock length. This will be how much over stock all of your cables will need to be.
Running hand control wires through the bars is a very tasty touch! But a little tricky. Cut them where the splices will be in a straight part of the bars. And cut them at different areas so you don't have all of your splices in a big wad. I used crimp splices on mine, but if I did it again I would solder the connections and cover them in shrink tubing. You also want to shrink the wire bundles where they run through the hole in the bottom at the risers so the sharp edges of the hole doesn't cut the wires. After you have the wires all extended, feed them through the bars and connect the lower portion of the wire bundles. Now, using the same color wire for all of them is OK, but you have to lable them (ie "orange with white stripe, black, black with purple stripe etc) or you will have no idea what wire goes where...)
I suggest getting a derby cover gasket and a quart of oil for that while you are at it with the cluch cable, might as well change the primary fluid and adjust the clutch... There are good threads here on that! It's very simple. Loosen clutch cable to full slack. Loosen jam nut on clutch adjuster. Turn screw in until it just touches then out 1/2 turn. Tighten jam nut. Adjust cable to 1/16" gap at ferrel to lever housing.
Tip on bleeding that new brake line. Be patient! It will take probably 100 bleeds to get it right. If you still have some squishiness that won't go away, there is probably an air buble caught near the bleeder. I took my caliper off the fork tube and rocked it aorund and gently tapped it with a special caliper tapping tool called a crew driver handle. Then held it so the bleeder was straight up and did two more bleeds and the bubble was gone.
Good luck!!!
