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04-07 HD DTC Codes and Activation

Mr. Data, I have an 04 Roadking. It set the following codes P U1097, S U1097. It has a slight fast and rough idle and the odometer is off a little for the miles covered. I checked the speed control sensor for "fur". It was clean. How magnetic is it supposed to be ? It will just barely attract a pocket screw driver.
Thanks, Bobby
 
Mr. Data,

Hello. I have a 2009 XR1200 with 3900 miles. Last Friday, I killed the battery by leaving the ignition on. I installed a new battery the same day and that battery died this afternoon.

I pulled the following codes:

P0374 - CKP Sensor Sync Error EFI (PN 32162-09)

b1008 - Reset Switch Closed Instruments

Can you give me an idea of why my new battery went dead in 4 days and/or anything I can check myself?

Thank you.
 
Zero_Bling said:
or anything I can check myself?
Click to expand...

You would really need to first determine if the battery went dead due to a parasitic drain or if the charging system is not working. With the right tools (current shunt & voltmeter), it is an easy thing to check,,but since the bike is probably still under warranty, why not just bring it in.? I also don't see how all your problems (2 DTC's and battery drain issue) are related to 1 single repair.

If you were out of warranty, I could see why you would want to roll up your sleeves.
 
Well, eventually I will have to roll up my sleeves.

I did notice that the positive battery connection was loose when I hooked up the smart-charger.

I will check all connections before I take it in for service. Yes, it's under warranty but the initial diagnostic is $180 and I'm not sure if that's covered.
 
Zero_Bling said:
I will check all connections before I take it in for service. Yes, it's under warranty but the initial diagnostic is $180 and I'm not sure if that's covered.
Click to expand...

Those error codes you have could have easily been generated during the period of time battery voltage was low or during charging & starting of bike with a low battery etc. I therefore would not put too much importance on them.

An example of what I mean would be your B1008 code. You can't have that code and at the same time be able to use said button to read any codes. The code MAY be real but it may be erroneous.

What I would do is Record all the codes. Once recorded, clear them and see what re-appears. If you really have any issues, the codes will soon re-appear. Work from that point forward.

Your battery drain problem. Most Hi quality hand held VOM's have the capability to read current to a few amps. On lab meters it is usually 2 full amps and on the automotive style meters it is usually 10 amps. Take the meter and place it in SERIES with either the positive OR negative lead of the battery. Do NOT (do not) turn the ignition key ON. If you do, you will blow the fuse in the meter. Leave the ignition key OFF and measure the parasitic current drain. It WILL be something greater than 25ma but should be less than ~100ma (1/10 amp). Measure it. That will tell you where you stand. If you measure something like 250ma (1/4amp) that is way too much and would kill a battery in nothing flat. At 250 milliamp load would kill a New fully charged battery in less than 75 hours.

It's none of my business but why is there a $180 diagnostic charge on a bike under a New 2 year warranty? I have never heard of that.
 
Hoople said:
Those error codes you have could have easily been generated during the period of time battery voltage was low or during charging & starting of bike with a low battery etc. I therefore would not put too much importance on them.

An example of what I mean would be your B1008 code. You can't have that code and at the same time be able to use said button to read any codes. The code MAY be real but it may be erroneous.

What I would do is Record all the codes. Once recorded, clear them and see what re-appears. If you really have any issues, the codes will soon re-appear. Work from that point forward.

Your battery drain problem. Most Hi quality hand held VOM's have the capability to read current to a few amps. On lab meters it is usually 2 full amps and on the automotive style meters it is usually 10 amps. Take the meter and place it in SERIES with either the positive OR negative lead of the battery. Do NOT (do not) turn the ignition key ON. If you do, you will blow the fuse in the meter. Leave the ignition key OFF and measure the parasitic current drain. It WILL be something greater than 25ma but should be less than ~100ma (1/10 amp). Measure it. That will tell you where you stand. If you measure something like 250ma (1/4amp) that is way too much and would kill a battery in nothing flat. At 250 milliamp load would kill a New fully charged battery in less than 75 hours.

It's none of my business but why is there a $180 diagnostic charge on a bike under a New 2 year warranty? I have never heard of that.
Click to expand...

Hoop, that is strange if it is under factory warranty it is free, most ESP is 50.00 deductable:s
 
Hoople said:
That's what I was thinking. I have never used it, but I was told my 2009 had a 2 year warranty which would put me into the year 2011.
Click to expand...

I was quoted the $180 diag. charge but was also informed the warranty would cover it. So I'm not sure.

Thanks for the assist. Now I just have to dig out my volt meter.
 
Hi Ya'll,
2006 FLHXI, Issue:
no tach or speedo etc...
I read the post and tried to access the DTC's however the sequence does not work. Pressing the reset button only shows the mileage it will not go to diag mode... Any thoughts ? are there rumors of the button going bad ?

Chris
 
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