roadkingrobert

Looking for any help on replacing the stator and rotor. Local dealer tested charging system, results, bad rotor. how can they tell if its the rotor and not the stator? Or bolth? If you replace one must you replace the other? I am begining to not trust local service if they are not being forthright on how extensive repairs will be. Bought bike from them this year,plus the $200.00 new speedo to correct the off mph reading, that didn't solve the problem. Had to change the wiring alittle so couldn't return it. Probably why all independant shops are over loaded with work. Sulotion is to get working on it myself { fairly mechanical}. Any good leads on deals for tools needed would also be appreciated. Already have most of the standard stuff, but not the speciality tools. Need a main drive nut wrench/socket , pully lock, gear puller for this job, correct? Aside from that I really love this road king, the 18 in apes are suprizingly comfortable, as is the entire ride of the bike. Like it better than the 08 ultra I rode for a while. Can ride this bike all day comfortably. Want to get back to it. Ride on!

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Hoople

Bad rotor as in weak magnets? Or Bad rotor as in mechanical interference with the stator?

It is Very hard to tell what is going on until you remove the parts and have them in your hands to inspect them. Several things can be wrong with each but you won't know until they are removed.
Anyone that can tell you EXACTLY what is wrong before removing the cover, either did the damage themselves or has X-ray vision.!

Almost sounds like they want to hook you into the repair job, then once it's apart "it also needs this and normally you don't need that but since it's apart.......it would be best to do it now..."

fin_676

The first tool you will need is the service manual for your bike this will tell you all that you really need to know
you will need a breaker bar and perhaps an extension for it to be able to loosen the compensator nut you may also need something to heat it up with as it is held on with red loctite which often need heat to soften it clutch hub nut is a left hand thread again red loctite as these 2 have been on a long time it is best to have an assistant to hold the bike steady while you put your full weight on the breaker bar and if you put bike in gear and get assistant to stomp on rear brake it should hold everything from moving while you undoo those 2 nuts

Brian

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TQuentin1

Gonna answer your questions based on my own experience. Others may have better suggestions.

As Brian said above, get the HD Factory Service Manual covering your model and year. It will save you lots of time, money and frustration!!

Can't. I suggest that you do the following before deciding to rip into the primary. The right one depends on your bike model:

Testing The Charging System - Harley Davidson Community (Testing The Charging System)

Testing The Charging System - Harley Davidson Community

If you have to replace the rotor, you will probably have to replace the stator due to damage. The opposite is not always necessary. Just make sure you are using the right stator for your system.

Try Sears Hardware. You will need a T-27 Torx bit or driver. You will need a socket for your 1/2" dive breaker bar to get the compensator nut off. Clutch basket nut is a lefty!! The rest of the stuff you have listed you will not need. You can work around with substitutes.

TQ

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pgcris

The manual ...get it. It has saved me!! I enjoy working on my 96 evo ...I understand a whole lot more because I have the manual ... Do I want to do everything no... but I can pick and choose with the book

roadkingrobert

Thanks Hoople, I beleive your correct on the hook me part.

Fin 676, good stuffthere, and yes I have the service manual,thanks.

On the electrical system test there was no charge to the battery, nothing at the volt reg. and like 4 on the output from the stator which should be 16 - 20 ...? What threw me off the most was having a dead battery , getting a jump from a car [ which took a while to charge enough ], then driving 25 miles to the house, with a motor not producing hardley any electricity. Perhaps it made just enough to fire the plugs. Bike did not feel wierd though. I thought the battry had taken a dump. Took a charge at the house though , next to dealer for test, and now the real fun begins, huh? Thanks to everyone for input. Ride on!

TQuentin1

Robert,

Open up the derby cover or tensioner inspection cover and take a whiff. If it smells burnt, your stator is most likely toast. This is a confirmation of the testing you did. Low output from the stator (Vac), continuity to ground on the stator plug all point to bad stator and maybe a problem with the rotor. But you will not know about the rotor until you pull it and see if the magnets have moved around.

The other problem is that the VR is likely to fail soon if it is not already toast. If the funds will allow it, you might just change it out too. But that is another couple of hundred! So your call obviously.

TQ

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fin_676

If you do end up striping the primary and you run into places where you get stuck stop take a brake from it and ask us here for guidance
first time i took the primary on an older bike to bits it took about 3 different attempts and help before i got that compensator nut to move

Brian

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karlsbike

I just replaced the stator/rotor on my Evo. It is not complicated, and saves you paying somone else...
Buy a six-pack and get a mate over to help you. The comp nut may be hard to loosen, and you may need a long breaker bar:
Put the bike in 5th gear, and get your now beer-drinking mate to sit on the bike and press that pedal while you loosen the nut. Side-note: on mine the comp nut had come loose, causing a lot of damage. Make sure you red locktite the threads when you re-assemble.
A bit fiddly to get the connector out through the case hole - I had to use ass'y lube on the rubber to get it through...
Good luck, and as someone else said; it you get into trouble post it here...
You may have taken out the regulator as well, but you should start with the known problem (you did check for ACV output, not DCV?). If the reg is gone, you can replace it later.

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Karl
'91 FLTC/FLHR

roadkingrobert

Hey fella's, here,s the up-date on my rotor/ stator problems. First off, got it all taken care of over the weekend. Bikes back to running great and all is good! That comensator nut is a (EDIT) !!! Rotor magnets had all slid together, and some were completly loose only held in place by the stator! Lots of crud in the 1000 mile old amsoil. Due to the amount of debri , and other counsil , I had decided to replace the stator as well, had found some good prices and was right there now. A good local shop I've delt with before had the parts. Got everything off , took it with to compare / verify to the new parts [Along with the new rotor sold to me buy HD dealer]. Good I did. HD sold me low output rotor, my system was a high. Instead of $50, a new stator was $125 plus the correct rotor was$100 plus. And if the VR was bad another $130. Evidently Roadking.s come with low output sys. standard,,,, Except for Police issue,due to the amount of electronics,siren , radio, lights, ect.... So I kept the HD rotor, got the low output stator, and bought a new VR , low output, plus crome mounting bracket [ the VR,s are differant] and changed the sys, to a low out put. hard part was routing a new wire to the battery.. cost was $285 , rebuilding the high output , $465. Learned a lot and had an interesting weekend! Thanks to everyone for thier input! I'll be back latter, see you on the road!

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