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glider · Oct 25th, 2009, 03:22 PM

They have saved the day more than once!

NEWHD74FAN · Oct 25th, 2009, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sadist112

Thanks for all the help guys. I took your advice and did some additional research. Looks like I have a lot of options here...

After much consideration I have decided to get a piggyback single oversized self tapping oil drain plug, I have also decided to purchase a Fumoto drain valve which I will hook into the piggy back plug on the self tapping drain plug. I am opting for the Fumoto, because I am afraid that even with retapping with the oil plug I may still have issues in the future. With the Fumoto I will never have to remove the plug. Based on the longevity (i plan to ride about 500 miles then reassess) of this fix I may just JB weld the self tapping plug in place.

Now for the lesson learned... I will use my 4" stubby ratchet wrench for secure all oil drain plugs going forward instead of my 12" Flex Head Snap-on ratchet and also only change the oil when I actually have enough time to do so.

Glad you got that sorted, yes I have used a similar product only one secured on the inside of the oil pan...for an automatic transmission, hated the mess of changing out a filter screen and draining by dropping the pan on Ford C4 & C6 transmissions back in the day (not bashing as most auto xmissions by major makes were the same).

Even our HD derby cover oil change system could have been improved, but that is another story...

fin_676 · Oct 25th, 2009, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NEWHD74FAN

The Helicoil has been in use since WWII when aluminum was finding many uses in aircraft, but stainless bolts would pull through soft aluminum allow threads. Helicoil relies on an inner tang at the bottom of the insert, locked to insertion tool to thread it in, but relies on the blind solid bottom of the hole to stop it and allow the tang to "break". Technically a regular drill is used to start, but a squared off drill is used to finish the hole so the bottom is flat and not dimpled, so the helicoil will come to a positive stop and break off the tang.

I have used thread inserts (helicoil) on a few occasions to do a repair of this type as far as im aware none of these have failed
put loctite on the thread insert screw it in to place allow loctite to set then use a needle nose plyers to break the tang off so you dont lose it inside

Brian

NEWHD74FAN · Nov 2nd, 2009, 01:48 AM

Brian, with the hole being tapped thruhole, I would be worried about somehow bolt going in would catch helicoil and drive it in further possibly all the way into the pan, but if it worked that is fine. I like the idea of the Time Sert but the price is way out of line. And using a piggy backed worked in this case or inner nut locking insert plug works, if you pull the pan when I was in automotive working on auto xmissions! So yes, "Emergency" mode will certainly get those creative juices flowing to be sure...

fin_676 · Nov 2nd, 2009, 06:20 PM

When using a helicoil in this type of situation i use something to lock it into place in the past have usually used araldite (epoxy resin) to glue the helicoil
to the desired position but im sure locktite would do the same job worked without problem on both a bmw and a motto guzzi bevel box
i have also done a couple of cylinder heads spark plug threads dry and they stayed in place as far as im aware (but that was on cars)did them in 1988 still got the kit have had no use for it since then

Brian

jdaws · Nov 2nd, 2009, 08:15 PM

Striping the threads out is almost always caused by over tightening the plug. The torque spec. is 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). Thats not real tight.
Borrow a torque wrench and get a feel for it. A timesert or helicoil would be the best repair. the o-ring on the plug is what makes the seal. The plug needs to be just tight enough so it doesn't fall out.

schmitty · Nov 6th, 2009, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NEWHD74FAN

WYW has the right idea, while Helicoil would work with blind sealed hole, the metal insert is open to the oild so simple insert will not work. Simply drill and tap or use oversize drain plug (they also make them with magnet) is the best fix. And don't forget to make a note not to overtighten it...most common cause! I also use a fiber washer rather than metal one or the silly o-ring which to me is too small surface area and deteriorate too fast...

I have wondered about this. Tell me more about this washer. In looking at and replacing the o-rings, I have wondered whether or not this was the best HD could come up with for the drain plugs.

glens · Nov 6th, 2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schmitty

I have wondered whether or not this [o-ring] was the best HD could come up with for the drain plugs.

Why not? It works, and is inexpensive and mind-numbingly simple to keep freshened-up.

If they're too expensive at the Harley shop, next time you pick one up, take and show it to the guy working on the forklifts at the loading dock at work. He'll probably outright give you a fistful of them if you say good morning and strike up a conversation.

HDDon · Nov 6th, 2009, 04:25 PM

I'm a retired toolmaker and have been reading this threat and I must say there are quite a few inovative way to correct the original problem re. stripped threads. While helicoil does require some type of thread locker in thru holes, there is a threat restorer that is made for thru holes is enexpensive and will not leak. I have personnaly used the keensert on many stripped holes in aluminum, plastic and steel and have never had one fail. They do not require special taps or tools and can be bought at most fastener outlets. Google keensert see if this will help you solve your stripped hole problems.

Sadist112 · Nov 7th, 2009, 08:10 AM

Update to my stripped thread issue:

Well the pepboys fix was worthless... the piggyback self tapping plug was too hard to thread in straight so I bagged that idea. Ended up drilling out the hole with a 1/2" step drill bit (by hand obvious as the pan was still on the bike). And tapped the hole with a 14mmx1.5 tap. Dumpped about 6 quarts of about 1,000 mile old oil through the engine. Then ordered a 1" extension and a Fumoto quick drain valve (see pic) now I am back in business. This was no doubt the best option in lieu of a timesert/helicoil. I red loctited the extension into the pan so I never intend to remove that and if there in an issue with the fumoto valve I can remove that from the extension and replace.

Oct 25th, 2009, 03:22 PM	#21
glider Community Liaison Ride: 07 Road King Classic Join Date: Jun 21st, 2007 Posts: 20,467 My Mood:	Re: Help! They have saved the day more than once! __________________ Psssst! Please stop by the "self help section" for maintenance tips, diagnostic codes and much more. click me!>>Self Help Information and Tips<< click me!

Nov 2nd, 2009, 01:48 AM	#24
NEWHD74FAN Moderators Ride: 2004 Sportster XL1200RS Join Date: Aug 24th, 2008 Location: Camarillo, CA Posts: 3,716 My Mood:	Re: Help! Brian, with the hole being tapped thruhole, I would be worried about somehow bolt going in would catch helicoil and drive it in further possibly all the way into the pan, but if it worked that is fine. I like the idea of the Time Sert but the price is way out of line. And using a piggy backed worked in this case or inner nut locking insert plug works, if you pull the pan when I was in automotive working on auto xmissions! So yes, "Emergency" mode will certainly get those creative juices flowing to be sure... __________________ Please stop by the "Self Help section" for maintenance tips, diagnostic codes and much more. >>Self Help Information and Tips<<

Nov 2nd, 2009, 06:20 PM	#25
fin_676 Moderators Ride: 1992 Softail Custom Join Date: Dec 21st, 2008 Location: Banffshire,Scotland Posts: 452 My Mood:	Re: Help! When using a helicoil in this type of situation i use something to lock it into place in the past have usually used araldite (epoxy resin) to glue the helicoil to the desired position but im sure locktite would do the same job worked without problem on both a bmw and a motto guzzi bevel box i have also done a couple of cylinder heads spark plug threads dry and they stayed in place as far as im aware (but that was on cars)did them in 1988 still got the kit have had no use for it since then Brian

Nov 2nd, 2009, 08:15 PM	#26
jdaws Warming The Wheels Ride: 2008 105 anv. FXDL Join Date: Jan 9th, 2009 Location: fargo, nd Posts: 66 My Mood:	Re: Help! Striping the threads out is almost always caused by over tightening the plug. The torque spec. is 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). Thats not real tight. Borrow a torque wrench and get a feel for it. A timesert or helicoil would be the best repair. the o-ring on the plug is what makes the seal. The plug needs to be just tight enough so it doesn't fall out.

Nov 6th, 2009, 04:25 PM	#29
HDDon Contributor$ Ride: 2005 FLTRI Join Date: Aug 28th, 2009 Location: Suwannee, Fl Posts: 164 My Mood:	Re: Help! I'm a retired toolmaker and have been reading this threat and I must say there are quite a few inovative way to correct the original problem re. stripped threads. While helicoil does require some type of thread locker in thru holes, there is a threat restorer that is made for thru holes is enexpensive and will not leak. I have personnaly used the keensert on many stripped holes in aluminum, plastic and steel and have never had one fail. They do not require special taps or tools and can be bought at most fastener outlets. Google keensert see if this will help you solve your stripped hole problems.

Nov 7th, 2009, 08:10 AM	#30
Sadist112 Warming The Wheels Ride: 2009 Street Glide Join Date: Jul 22nd, 2008 Location: Philly Posts: 113	Re: Help! Update to my stripped thread issue: Well the pepboys fix was worthless... the piggyback self tapping plug was too hard to thread in straight so I bagged that idea. Ended up drilling out the hole with a 1/2" step drill bit (by hand obvious as the pan was still on the bike). And tapped the hole with a 14mmx1.5 tap. Dumpped about 6 quarts of about 1,000 mile old oil through the engine. Then ordered a 1" extension and a Fumoto quick drain valve (see pic) now I am back in business. This was no doubt the best option in lieu of a timesert/helicoil. I red loctited the extension into the pan so I never intend to remove that and if there in an issue with the fumoto valve I can remove that from the extension and replace. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Sadist 2009 - Street Glide 2007 - Scion Tc

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