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XIED solution anyone???

I just removed my XIED's from my 07 Ultra.I think they ran cooler but power was down and it did not sound right.Mileage was also down.I have stage one with Rinehart TD's and made no adjustments before or after. .Maybe cooler but sounded like I could hurt something.My bike is way hotter than I thought it would be.

sall I know,
 
If you knew what you were speaking about you would understand this concept rather than posting negativity about everything you post.

I've yet to hear from anyone that can explain how one setting affects both idle and 2000 RPM's. So if you can elaborate I'm all ears. I'd love to hear your explanation.
 
I've yet to hear from anyone that can explain how one setting affects both idle and 2000 RPM's. So if you can elaborate I'm all ears. I'd love to hear your explanation.

Obviously you don't have any concept of the workings of the various sensors on the FI bikes and how they function. Do some research and find out. As far as the setting of the idle at 1800, it's the low speed setting done on the #1 pot that handles that. The 1800 RPM is used for setting so you can hear the tone of the bike when adjusting the pot which sets the fuel for low speeds as well as idle fuel too.


Green Fuel Pot: (functions like a fuel mixture screw on a carburetor)
Adjusts for the motorcycle's fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through legal highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm set pot. We have found that manufacturers have generally leaned out the fuel mixtures for emissions to a specific rpm (see below). To set this pot, make sure the motorcycle is up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast idle that is not easy to hold a steady rpm (V-twins 1800-2200 rpm and multiple cylinders 2500-3000 rpm), hold the throttle at that spot and then slowly and evenly turn the green pot clockwise from its minimum setting, while listening to the exhaust sound. You should hear the exhaust sound change form an irregular and uneven sound to an even and smooth one. You may also see an increase in rpm as you increase fuel, and if you continue to increase fuel past this point to where the revs start to fall back away, then you can stop and start returning the pot screw back to a point half way between where the exhaust note first smoothed out and the point where the highest rpm starts to fall away.

Yellow Fuel Pot: (functions like an accelerator pump)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel into the fuel map whenever the throttle is opened rapidly. This pot needs to be adjusted from test riding, by performing brisk roll-ons in a specific gear, and by always starting at the exact same rpm. Try one clock position increases between roll-on tests until you can't feel any more improvement, and then go back to the last setting that improvement was noticed. Some models won't require as much fuel as others, so while increasing the yellow by one clock position increments if the motorcycle starts to decrease in throttle response, then turn the yellow back one and a half clock positions

Red Fuel Pot: (functions like a main jet on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel under large load conditions and is generally required when either air intake or quality exhaust system changes occur. This addition happens automatically using our unique load sensing technology, and similar to the road test procedure listed above in yellow fuel, test riding while increasing red fuel will find an optimum setting.

RPM Switch Pot:
All (except Harley/Metric V-twins) Sets the rpm that the green fuel turns off. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to 4:30 o'clock for 600cc and above multi cylinder sport bikes. Each clock position of this pot equates to about 1000 rpm's, so 4,500 rpm's would be half way between 4 and 5 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green light to go out at the chosen rpm.

All Harley and Metric V-twins Sets the rpm that the green and yellow fuel turns off and the red (main jet) turns on. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to about 70% of redline (for example a Harley-Davidson Roadking redline is 5800 rpm and 4000 is 70% of redline) which would be 4:00 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green and yellow light to go out at the chosen rpm.
 
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i will ask the question - what happens to the idle on a carbed bike when you alter one of the settings?
i know from experience when i altered any of the low circuit settings or allowed more fuel into the carb the idle altered, and on my twin carbed bikes i then had to rebalance them due to the minor alteration in fuel flow.
An Fi bike is the same you may at times not see it as the computer will try its hardest to keep the idle at the settings from the factory.
I have just had my Dyna staged and once i get it run in it will be going on the dyno to adjust everything from idle to WOT.
also what happens when you pull out the choke?
the rpms rise due to extra fuel and goes up to around 2000rpm so you can as you see, you can affect idle by messing with the other settings.

if you have a better explaination im all ears, and please post it up so others can learn

Two different scenarios altogether. Carb cuts air when choked and EFI adds fuel. End result is the same, rich mixture, just happens by a different process. However, the idle wasn't affected by messing with different settings, unless you're specifically dealing with a temperature issue on an EFI bike. Then, of course, the map will have a richer setting. Basically, one mechanically chokes off air, the other electronically adds fuel. Both create the needed rich mix for cold starts, different process, same end result.

Obviously you don't have any concept of the workings of the various sensors on the FI bikes and how they function. Do some research and find out. As far as the setting of the idle at 1800, it's the low speed setting done on the #1 pot that handles that. The 1800 RPM is used for setting so you can hear the tone of the bike when adjusting the pot which sets the fuel for low speeds as well as idle fuel too.


Green Fuel Pot: (functions like a fuel mixture screw on a carburetor)
Adjusts for the motorcycle's fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through legal highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm set pot. We have found that manufacturers have generally leaned out the fuel mixtures for emissions to a specific rpm (see below). To set this pot, make sure the motorcycle is up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast idle that is not easy to hold a steady rpm (V-twins 1800-2200 rpm and multiple cylinders 2500-3000 rpm), hold the throttle at that spot and then slowly and evenly turn the green pot clockwise from its minimum setting, while listening to the exhaust sound. You should hear the exhaust sound change form an irregular and uneven sound to an even and smooth one. You may also see an increase in rpm as you increase fuel, and if you continue to increase fuel past this point to where the revs start to fall back away, then you can stop and start returning the pot screw back to a point half way between where the exhaust note first smoothed out and the point where the highest rpm starts to fall away.

Yellow Fuel Pot: (functions like an accelerator pump)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel into the fuel map whenever the throttle is opened rapidly. This pot needs to be adjusted from test riding, by performing brisk roll-ons in a specific gear, and by always starting at the exact same rpm. Try one clock position increases between roll-on tests until you can't feel any more improvement, and then go back to the last setting that improvement was noticed. Some models won't require as much fuel as others, so while increasing the yellow by one clock position increments if the motorcycle starts to decrease in throttle response, then turn the yellow back one and a half clock positions

Red Fuel Pot: (functions like a main jet on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel under large load conditions and is generally required when either air intake or quality exhaust system changes occur. This addition happens automatically using our unique load sensing technology, and similar to the road test procedure listed above in yellow fuel, test riding while increasing red fuel will find an optimum setting.

RPM Switch Pot:
All (except Harley/Metric V-twins) Sets the rpm that the green fuel turns off. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to 4:30 o'clock for 600cc and above multi cylinder sport bikes. Each clock position of this pot equates to about 1000 rpm's, so 4,500 rpm's would be half way between 4 and 5 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green light to go out at the chosen rpm.

All Harley and Metric V-twins Sets the rpm that the green and yellow fuel turns off and the red (main jet) turns on. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to about 70% of redline (for example a Harley-Davidson Roadking redline is 5800 rpm and 4000 is 70% of redline) which would be 4:00 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green and yellow light to go out at the chosen rpm.

Fortunately, I have the instructions right in front of me, so a copy and paste doesn't explain much. Maybe I need to ask a different way. How do I set my idle richer than cruise with this unit?
 
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Green Fuel Pot: (functions like a fuel mixture screw on a carburetor)
Adjusts for the motorcycle's fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through legal highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm set pot.
 
Two different scenarios altogether. Carb cuts air when choked and EFI adds fuel. End result is the same, rich mixture, just happens by a different process. However, the idle wasn't affected by messing with different settings, unless you're specifically dealing with a temperature issue on an EFI bike. Then, of course, the map will have a richer setting. Basically, one mechanically chokes off air, the other electronically adds fuel. Both create the needed rich mix for cold starts, different process, same end result.

Smitty is correct in that the carb enricher adds fuel and doesn't choker off the air like you posted above. You should get up to date on what you are posting before misleading members.
It seems like you are trying to prove something but don't have any idea of what it is.
I suggest you take a bit more time to prepare what you post before posting something that isn't thought out before hitting the send button..
 
I have heard XiED is a good product!! I am thinking about getting one and installing it. Is it easy to install yourself? Will it even help with V&H Slip Ons? What about the XiED vs PCV?
 
XiED's are easy to install, I think It'll help with slip ons.
PCV is a fuel management device, I looked at the PCIII and PCV, but I chose to go with FuelPak's to both our bikes with Big Radius and Big suckers.
I'm happy with the results on the FXSTC, still tweekin the Dyna.
 
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