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4) Take your voltmeter and measure the voltage between receptacle pin 86 and FRAME ground. With the ignition ON and the kill switch in RUN, you must measure 12 volts. If you don't, the bars Kill switch is not working.


Maybe we are getting somewhere!!!
Measured zero volts......I'll replace the kill switch tomorrow.
 
Those switches are pretty rugged and probably not cheap. You may want to check the wiring and connectors first. Maybe even jumper the switch out of the circuit just to see if the engine now comes to life.
 
4) Take your voltmeter and measure the voltage between receptacle pin 86 and FRAME ground. With the ignition ON and the kill switch in RUN, you must measure 12 volts. If you don't, the bars Kill switch is not working.


Maybe we are getting somewhere!!!
Measured zero volts......I'll replace the kill switch tomorrow.

Good Luck, and let us know how it turns out
 
Well as soon as I took it apart, I thought I found the problem. The kill switch connection was (EDIT) . Wrapped in poor grade electrical tape which when removed, the two wires just feel apart. Yaaaaaaa I thought.....here's my problem. :( no...still didn't work when I reconnected and put back together.



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use a automotive d c.test lead from battery gnd. to the fuel pump fuse. when you turn the key on do to get elec current to the f. fuse?the light in the test lead should come on.
 
You need to check the voltages again. Just because you put the wires back together doesn't mean the switch is good. I replaced the right hand switches in my '94FLSTC, and if I remember correctly they were only about $10 each. Because it is such a tight place I used solder and heat shrink. You also need to check the fuzes either with a volt meter or by putting new fuxes in. If your like me just looking at them sometimes doesn't work.
 
Sorry guys, going to get back into it this evening. Last Friday night my house was buglarized and ransacked so I've been really tied up and unable to devote time to my bike.
 
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