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Winter storage oil change.

tleclair

New Member
Hi all.
Winter storage in is approaching and I need some advice.
I will be storing my Heritage in my unheated garage for the winter. I know it is important to get the old oil removed for the winter and I will be changing it for storage.
I am also concerned with condensation forming in the engine as the temperature increases and decreases. This concerns me as well.
This is what I am thinking of doing. Change the oil and filter pre storage using cheap 20-50 recomended for V twins and a cheap black fiter.
Then post storage warming it up and changing it again using Mobil V Twin 20-50 and an HD chrome filter.
I should add this heritage was new july 15 2011. I have had the 1000 mile service done at the dealer ship. They recommended changing to synthetic oil on my second oil change(not sure why). I am thinking it will have about 4000 miles on it by the time it comes to storage time.
The pre storage oil change should only cost about $20(will be doing it myself). Do you guys think I am wasting my time and money doing the cheap pre storage change?
Or do I just do a synthetic change pre storage and not worry about the condensation?
Thanks in advance for your advice. Tim
 
I would use the plain oil and filter. Next spring, check bike all over, have full charged battery, fire it up! Go ride it 50 or so miles, change oil when its HOT!!!
You can at this point go to your favorite synthetic oil with a new oil filter. Make sure gas tank is full, put some kind of gas stabilizer in fuel (I like SeaFoam) run it so fuel additive gets in fuel injectors.
Hope this helps!
wilks3
:USA
 
If you haven't done it already and it has around the 4000 miles, I would put the synthetic oil in when you put the bike into storage. Any condensation that happens over winter will be burnt off when you start riding in the spring.

In my view it is important to put clean oil in the engine when it goes into storage. That way any acids built up in the used oil by the combustion process will not be sitting around in the engine.
 
Hey Tank, what is the definition of "frequent" in the following that you posted?

If the engine is run frequently and allowed to thoroughly warm up, most of this water will become vapor again and will be blown out through the crankcase breather. If the engine is not run frequently and allowed to thoroughly warm up, this water will accumulate, mix with the engine oil and form a sludge that is harmful to the engine.
 
I would say that Tank meant fully warmed up and at least 10 miles would be sufficient to burn off any condensation. As long as this is applied the frequency of running becomes unimportant.
 
Hi All:

I've been not riding for the last 2 months or so due to a medical reason. I'm about to change the oil for the winter however I cannot take it out for a ride to warm it up due to my current condition. Would it be ok if I just warmed it up in garage, by letting it idle 10-15 mins then drain it ?? I guess its the best I can do now, other than wait until Spring.
Thanks
 
Hi All:

I've been not riding for the last 2 months or so due to a medical reason. I'm about to change the oil for the winter however I cannot take it out for a ride to warm it up due to my current condition. Would it be ok if I just warmed it up in garage, by letting it idle 10-15 mins then drain it ?? I guess its the best I can do now, other than wait until Spring.
Thanks

Sure but be careful about fumes and may be keep a fan on the motor, warm it up good, check the dip stick for signs of condensation, Milky look to oil
 
Thanks Jack. I don 't think a fan is necessary here: it's -4C (or about 28F) lol.
If I just let teh old oil drain really well, should that not take out the condensation as well ?? I won't run it with the new.

Jack (also)
 
The problem with not using the fan is the heat is concentrated only in certain areas like heads etc.as it runs. By the time the oil gets hot, the heads will be smoking hot. I would use a fan anyway to eliminate the hot spots just to be sure.
 
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