Wierd engine light
- Thread starter rw1050
- Start date
Hoople
Account Removed
It would be nice to start with a clean slate but I know of no easy DIY way to clear codes on your bike.
I would put it all back together and see if you still get that check engine light coming on. If I did, I would then temporarily disconnect the TFI. Not by just removing the ground wire, but by placing the injector cables into their original sockets. You must directly connect the original injector connectors to the injectors.
Remember that with the TFI installed, the ECM is no longer directly driving the fuel injector. It's driving the TFI. The error code your seeing is really being generated by the current load the ECM sees when it drives the TFI NOT the fuel injector. The current load of the injector circuit is transparent to the ECM with the TFI installed.
I can only assume that you followed the testing steps to the "T" and did not by-pass any steps, especially "jumping the two pins of 84B".
Since the bike does run fine in spite of the error code, you stand a very good chance that the TFI is generating the code.
I would put it all back together and see if you still get that check engine light coming on. If I did, I would then temporarily disconnect the TFI. Not by just removing the ground wire, but by placing the injector cables into their original sockets. You must directly connect the original injector connectors to the injectors.
Remember that with the TFI installed, the ECM is no longer directly driving the fuel injector. It's driving the TFI. The error code your seeing is really being generated by the current load the ECM sees when it drives the TFI NOT the fuel injector. The current load of the injector circuit is transparent to the ECM with the TFI installed.
I can only assume that you followed the testing steps to the "T" and did not by-pass any steps, especially "jumping the two pins of 84B".
Since the bike does run fine in spite of the error code, you stand a very good chance that the TFI is generating the code.
Hoople
Account Removed
BTW... If you think it may be the front injector, while you have the tank removed you could just swap the injectors front to rear & rear to front. Not sure of your bike, but it's a snap to do on mine. If it's the injector that is bad, I would now expect to see a 32 code being thrown.
I would think it's more of a TFI issue, but who knows until you test it. One step at a time.
I would think it's more of a TFI issue, but who knows until you test it. One step at a time.
rw1050
Member
Hoople. Sorry for not getting back to you sooner.. So I did what you suggested by putting it back together and drove it 300 miles. the original Light issue seems to be gone meaning it doesnt come on and then go out.. I now have a light that comes on when I am at around 60 mph and stays on till i shut the bike off and then it resets and dont see it again till I get over 60ish.. Now of course I pulled the codes again and I have the 23 code still there and now have a code 24. Again runs fine.. I didnt change the Injecttor because the HD dealer wasnt open on Sunday when i did the testing. and yes i did follow it to the "T" :s . Any other thoughts?
Hoople
Account Removed
I wish I was working with a Genuine HD service manual but I am not. I only have a general Clymer manual for your year & model bike. Do you happen to have a Genuine HD manual.
I am hoping that the code charts I am looking at, are in-fact correct. Aftermarket manuals can have "holes" in them. That's just the way it is.
I can only tell you what I would do if this was my bike and how I see the problem from a remote location. First off, getting a new 24 code (front coil issue) is very strange. It's hard for me to believe you actually now have a coil issue also. But what's in common between the 23 & 24 codes is the power source. Look at the attachment. Do you have this fuse/relay block on your bike?
The very first thing to do: The coil connector has 4 wires. One should be a Yellow w/ Green (terminal "A") which is the power source. With the engine OFF, compare the voltage directly across the battery, to the voltage you read between terminal A and Frame ground.
Place meter probes directly onto the battery lead posts. Compare that reading to what you read at terminal "A" of the coil and the frame. What do you read? Do not unplug the coil connector to read the voltage. Try to back-probe the connector.
After doing that voltage comparison, I would inspect/ clean/ lube/ tighten the following items.
1) The battery terminals. Remove, wire brush and re-tighten. Don't grease up the terminals until AFTER they are installed and tighten.
2) The ECM fuse.
3) The System relay pins and socket
4) The 36 pin ECM connector. (Before inspecting the ECM connector, disconnect the battery)
5) The 40 amp main breaker.
Even if your eye-sight is good, it is always best to use a set of inspection glasses when looking at pins, pin receptacles and crimp connectors. Look for signs of discoloration which indicate heat, electrolysis, pitting, loose fitment, spreading of receptacles, fretting etc. On a 12 year old bike, things you would not normally see can exist
I am hoping that the code charts I am looking at, are in-fact correct. Aftermarket manuals can have "holes" in them. That's just the way it is.
I can only tell you what I would do if this was my bike and how I see the problem from a remote location. First off, getting a new 24 code (front coil issue) is very strange. It's hard for me to believe you actually now have a coil issue also. But what's in common between the 23 & 24 codes is the power source. Look at the attachment. Do you have this fuse/relay block on your bike?
The very first thing to do: The coil connector has 4 wires. One should be a Yellow w/ Green (terminal "A") which is the power source. With the engine OFF, compare the voltage directly across the battery, to the voltage you read between terminal A and Frame ground.
Place meter probes directly onto the battery lead posts. Compare that reading to what you read at terminal "A" of the coil and the frame. What do you read? Do not unplug the coil connector to read the voltage. Try to back-probe the connector.
After doing that voltage comparison, I would inspect/ clean/ lube/ tighten the following items.
1) The battery terminals. Remove, wire brush and re-tighten. Don't grease up the terminals until AFTER they are installed and tighten.
2) The ECM fuse.
3) The System relay pins and socket
4) The 36 pin ECM connector. (Before inspecting the ECM connector, disconnect the battery)
5) The 40 amp main breaker.
Even if your eye-sight is good, it is always best to use a set of inspection glasses when looking at pins, pin receptacles and crimp connectors. Look for signs of discoloration which indicate heat, electrolysis, pitting, loose fitment, spreading of receptacles, fretting etc. On a 12 year old bike, things you would not normally see can exist