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Where is neutral?

efmccormack said:
I was too embarrased and thought it was just me. I am having the same issue with my 2011 Road King
Click to expand...

Most of the time NEW bikes have to wear in a bit,,,First 1000 miles .

THEN they need the clutch pack adjusted to the correct adjustment... I use the 1/2 turn out from touching the clutch pack on the adjuster bolt on the clutch,,,Hold adjustment so it doesn't change then Lock the Nut , set on Cold clutch... VERY SIMPLE to do so WHY pay to get it done?

Then the cable needs to be set at 1/16 to 1/8 MAX. clearance at the clutch handle housing.. You can check to see Right Now "IF" you have MORE than the Max 1/8 inch???? an easy adjustment to tighten the cabe a Little Now to GIVE more opening of the clutch plates.. 1/16 Min or the clutch throwout bearings will run and wear..

You can NOW have the clunk gone IF the other adjustment on the clutch pack is close to the 1/2 turn setting..

My settings described above Allow the Best positioning for the clutch to allow MORE open space between the clutch plates and EASIER to find neutral..
Using this adjustment, engine ready for the ride,I can pull my clutch in when cold starting and count 5 and the tyranny is NOT clunking into gear.. Now when it is HOT and JUST Needs a Little adjustment cause it clinks a little too much, I will RE-adjust the cable, taking out the SLACK as it is More than the 1/8 inch.. Next time around,,, I do the full adjustment over again, starting with the cable Loosened and do the clutch at a 1/2 turn out(cold set) and tighten the cable to the right spot and I am good for another no-clunk ride for a looong time..

Your clutch should have at-least 1 inch of travel From the squeezed handle-bar position OR a little More,,, Before it starts to Grab...

Just My Way

signed....BUBBIE
 
Hi Guys,

Very informative thank you.

Is this the oil you are recommending?

Spectro Oils of America - Transmission Gear Oils

I have a 2010 FLHX and frankly all works well.. The occasional CLUNK.. but over all its fine. Adjustments on my own to the clutch etc is not for me lol.. but I'm ok with changing oil. I am at almost 5000Kms (not miles) so figured I am early but like many here, I look at oil changes as a very worthy investment.

Thanks, Shawn
 
Curveball; shouldn't need neutral - didn't they tell you when purchasing a new Ultra that there's no need for clutch because you never stop long enough to use it...;)

Seroiusly...giv 'er a good break-in & then time to change fluids + adjust. Will get 'er where you want it. Ride safe!
 
israguard said:
Hi Guys,

Very informative thank you.

Is this the oil you are recommending?

Spectro Oils of America - Transmission Gear Oils

I have a 2010 FLHX and frankly all works well.. The occasional CLUNK.. but over all its fine. Adjustments on my own to the clutch etc is not for me lol.. but I'm ok with changing oil. I am at almost 5000Kms (not miles) so figured I am early but like many here, I look at oil changes as a very worthy investment.

Thanks, Shawn
Click to expand...


That's the one (and only) :D
 
Is it OK to use that same Spectro oil in my '90 FXR?
I need to fill 'er up anyway, may as well fill 'er up with the best stuff I can get.
 
israguard said:
Hi Guys,

Very informative thank you.

Is this the oil you are recommending?

Spectro Oils of America - Transmission Gear Oils

I have a 2010 FLHX and frankly all works well.. The occasional CLUNK.. but over all its fine. Adjustments on my own to the clutch etc is not for me lol.. but I'm ok with changing oil. I am at almost 5000Kms (not miles) so figured I am early but like many here, I look at oil changes as a very worthy investment.

Thanks, Shawn
Click to expand...

If you can change the oil you can adjust the clutch, it is easier to do in my opinion.
 
I was having the same problem with my LowRider. Hard as (EDIT) to find neutral. I did a lot of research and finally decided on RedLine 80/140. What a change!! Smooth shift and neutral is easy now. I'm going to switch to their oil next oil change.


Please read and understand the info in this link...

A Friendly Reminder - Harley Davidson Community

 
Last edited by a moderator:
BUBBIE said:
Most of the time NEW bikes have to wear in a bit,,,First 1000 miles .

THEN they need the clutch pack adjusted to the correct adjustment... I use the 1/2 turn out from touching the clutch pack on the adjuster bolt on the clutch,,,Hold adjustment so it doesn't change then Lock the Nut , set on Cold clutch... VERY SIMPLE to do so WHY pay to get it done?

Then the cable needs to be set at 1/16 to 1/8 MAX. clearance at the clutch handle housing.. You can check to see Right Now "IF" you have MORE than the Max 1/8 inch???? an easy adjustment to tighten the cabe a Little Now to GIVE more opening of the clutch plates.. 1/16 Min or the clutch throwout bearings will run and wear..

You can NOW have the clunk gone IF the other adjustment on the clutch pack is close to the 1/2 turn setting..

My settings described above Allow the Best positioning for the clutch to allow MORE open space between the clutch plates and EASIER to find neutral..
Using this adjustment, engine ready for the ride,I can pull my clutch in when cold starting and count 5 and the tyranny is NOT clunking into gear.. Now when it is HOT and JUST Needs a Little adjustment cause it clinks a little too much, I will RE-adjust the cable, taking out the SLACK as it is More than the 1/8 inch.. Next time around,,, I do the full adjustment over again, starting with the cable Loosened and do the clutch at a 1/2 turn out(cold set) and tighten the cable to the right spot and I am good for another no-clunk ride for a looong time..

Your clutch should have at-least 1 inch of travel From the squeezed handle-bar position OR a little More,,, Before it starts to Grab...

Just My Way

signed....BUBBIE
Click to expand...

Good answer...Thx
 
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