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What RPM's do you run your bike?

I have no clue since I don't have a tach.:(

+1

Bodeen

The above riders, I would TRUST, Feel and listen to their bikes Just like I do..

Once SEASONED, Some riders need No tach to tell them the Running of their bike engine. Selecting gears, to get the FEEL and Sounds that tell them ALL they need to know.

Yes, I do like a tach and look at it when I have one on my bike. The 09 FLHR doesn't come with one. Knowing I can install one of many different types but feel comfortable with Feel and Ear..

I think my running of my bike would be Not to Lug it down. I have put my bike in 6 th gear and allowed compression to pull against it 40/45 mph down a very steep slope but shifting back to 3/4 when on the level..

I really like the gearing on the 09 FLHR 6spd and find the TOTAL bike as a Unit,,, completes me like a Hand and a good fitting Glove..

I'm sure Many of you fit the same with your bike and I use the above Two members as an example from their posting on HDT, shows Me that they fit the True Biker MOLD (as many others do, also).. :newsmile03:

signed....BUBBIE
 
I have no tach on my bikes i just change when it feels right whether up or down but i have been riding bikes for many years and most had a tach on them but as i have only had singles and twins im kind of used to riding lower revving engines

Brian
 
It all depend on your engine build IMO . When my bike was stock it seemed that I had to run the bike at a higher rpm to keep it in the power band . Remember the stock bike lacks HP & Torque so the dealer tells you that the bike is designed to run at a high RPM and you need to keep the RPM,s up , so now you run your bike like the dealer tell you and you think the bike has more power then it actually has and you are a happy customer , if you aren't happy the dealer has all sorts of stuff he can sell you that will make the bike run better , IMO HD makes the bikes under powered to get you to spend more $$$$ and it also helps keep the dealer in business .
The way I look at it the higher the RPM the faster your engine will wear out !! More RPM,s = more heat and wear on engine parts , after I had the 103" kit installed with 255 cams I DON'T have to run the bike at a higher RPM , the bike will run 1,980 RPM,s @ 55mph in 6th gear and has power to spare .
If you are running 2500 RPM @ 60 MPH and I am running 2000 RPM @ 60 MPH the engine on your bike turned 30,000 MORE revolutions then my engine did in 60 miles/minutes . HMMMM wonder what that would be over the lifetime of a bike , Food for thought .:s
 
Ironmark,

I too have the 103 with 255 cams although I only have about 1000 miles on that set up and I have found that it also has plenty of power at lower rpm's than before. I wonder what actually constitutes an engine being lugged.
 
It all depend on your engine build IMO . When my bike was stock it seemed that I had to run the bike at a higher rpm to keep it in the power band . Remember the stock bike lacks HP & Torque so the dealer tells you that the bike is designed to run at a high RPM and you need to keep the RPM,s up , so now you run your bike like the dealer tell you and you think the bike has more power then it actually has and you are a happy customer , if you aren't happy the dealer has all sorts of stuff he can sell you that will make the bike run better , IMO HD makes the bikes under powered to get you to spend more $$$$ and it also helps keep the dealer in business .
The way I look at it the higher the RPM the faster your engine will wear out !! More RPM,s = more heat and wear on engine parts , after I had the 103" kit installed with 255 cams I DON'T have to run the bike at a higher RPM , the bike will run 1,980 RPM,s @ 55mph in 6th gear and has power to spare .
If you are running 2500 RPM @ 60 MPH and I am running 2000 RPM @ 60 MPH the engine on your bike turned 30,000 MORE revolutions then my engine did in 60 miles/minutes . HMMMM wonder what that would be over the lifetime of a bike , Food for thought .:s

I don't buy this - it's the same philosophy some use to justify not doing any aerobic activity - "Hey, my ticker is only good for a set number of beats so why use them up jogging?"

I think an engine bites the dust due to a manufacturing defect manifesting itself or lack of routine, preventive maintenance. Keep up on the scheduled maintenance, pay attention to the little signals your bike sends you when it needs attention, and keep it below the redline and you should be fine.

Ironmark,

I too have the 103 with 255 cams although I only have about 1000 miles on that set up and I have found that it also has plenty of power at lower rpm's than before. I wonder what actually constitutes an engine being lugged.

This has been addressed many times. Your bike will actually shudder if you try to lug it by rolling on the throttle at too low an RPM or too high a load regime, like 2 up, passing, or uphill.
 
The above riders, I would TRUST, Feel and listen to their bikes Just like I do..

Once SEASONED, Some riders need No tach to tell them the Running of their bike engine. Selecting gears, to get the FEEL and Sounds that tell them ALL they need to know.

Yes, I do like a tach and look at it when I have one on my bike. The 09 FLHR doesn't come with one. Knowing I can install one of many different types but feel comfortable with Feel and Ear..

I think my running of my bike would be Not to Lug it down. I have put my bike in 6 th gear and allowed compression to pull against it 40/45 mph down a very steep slope but shifting back to 3/4 when on the level..

I really like the gearing on the 09 FLHR 6spd and find the TOTAL bike as a Unit,,, completes me like a Hand and a good fitting Glove..

I'm sure Many of you fit the same with your bike and I use the above Two members as an example from their posting on HDT, shows Me that they fit the True Biker MOLD (as many others do, also).. :newsmile03:

signed....BUBBIE

When I posted this question I was just curious about how everyone else runs their bike basically stating where my bike ran the smoothest and got the best fuel economy. Tach or no tach, I do not think this determines whether a rider is SEASONED or not. My dyna is an 07 with 104,000 kms (65,000 mi) and I still like to look at my tach ocassionally. Using the above two members situation, does this mean a rider that uses or looks at his tach is a biker in a different catagory as one who doesn't, What is the True Biker MOLD?
 
My bike didn't come with a tach, but I put one on for two reasons. One was that I think it looks good, the other is that it gave me a way to listen to the engine and see the tach to learn the rpm ranges. Now I rarely look at the tach and when I do I'm always within a couple hundred rpm of where I think the engine is running.

On the slab, my Deuce seems to really like the 2800-3500 rpm range. It's where I get my best hiway mpg as well.
 
When I posted this question I was just curious about how everyone else runs their bike basically stating where my bike ran the smoothest and got the best fuel economy. Tach or no tach, I do not think this determines whether a rider is SEASONED or not. My dyna is an 07 with 104,000 kms (65,000 mi) and I still like to look at my tach ocassionally. Using the above two members situation, does this mean a rider that uses or looks at his tach is a biker in a different catagory as one who doesn't, What is the True Biker MOLD?

There is not one, if there was it would be boring kind of like a new stock bike, they almost all get changed some, same with us we are all individuals and collectively we make up the Biker World, JMO:s
 
I don't buy this - i

I think an engine bites the dust due to a manufacturing defect manifesting itself or lack of routine, preventive maintenance. Keep up on the scheduled maintenance, pay attention to the little signals your bike sends you when it needs attention, and keep it below the redline and you should be fine.



This has been addressed many times. Your bike will actually shudder if you try to lug it by rolling on the throttle at too low an RPM or too high a load regime, like 2 up, passing, or uphill.

I DO NOT believe in your theory !!!
Anyone who made a investment and want to protect their investment will perform a strict maintenance schedule . You can do all the maintenance you can , use the best oil ect , ect . BUT the bottom line is engines are made from metal and metal upon metal creates friction , friction creates heat , heat destroys metal . That is why oil is required in the internal combustion engine , BUT even with the best oil the engine still produces heat so the faster the engine runs the MORE heat it produces . WHY does the rear cylinder on a air cooled V-Twin engine go out faster then the front cylinder & IF you don't think that this is true then WHY did HD put in a heat management system in the new bikes incorporating a REAR cylinder shut down ? I believe the MOCO knew about the heat issue for along time but finally had to do something about it because the were loosing a good portion of the market to their competitors . So the MOCO cure is to put a 6 speed trans in their bikes which lowers the RPM,s approximately 500 RPM,s per gear & at the same time they installed the HEAT MANAGMENT SYSTEM , both changes were made to extend engine life and make the HD motorcycle a more desirable product for the consumer .

Also I can drop my bike down to 1750 RPM in 6th gear the speedo reading 45MPH and roll it on and there is absolutely NO shutter and I can do this riding 2 up .
 
I run the 09 at 2200 a lot in 6th, now when i pull my aspen class i keep it in 5th
Rolling down the road at 2300# 6th only works on the flats and down hill.
My under standing of lugging is if you are not able to incress your rpm when you roll
0n''' as long as rpms go up on roll on you are ok
 
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