Voltage Across The Ignition Switch????

[The Pict]

I have been having charging problems with my rigid 96 inch Evo chop, after fitting a new Reg the charging rate was fine 14.45v. Fully charged the battery and it was holding the charge until I switched the ignition switch (old style) on the dash to ON and the volt reading at the battery was 10.34v after I turned the switch to off the battery was still showing 10.34v and when I put the tester probe on the live terminal of the battery and on the top surface of the ignition switch I get a reading of 10.34v!!!!! does anyone have any idea what might be causing this other than the ignition switch internals being destroyed. I think the switch is faulty but could do with some words of wisdom

 

[glider]

You may want to have the battery load tested.

 

[bc45]

I am not shure I am getting what you are saying,
one voltmeter lead on possitive batt post and the other on the outer housing of the ignition switch?
If that is what you are saying,then you should get the same reading as hooking it to the battery because the outer housing is grounded to the frame.

Have the battery load tested sounds like the batt has a verry low charge or it is bad.

 

[R_W_B]

I am not shure I am getting what you are saying,
one voltmeter lead on possitive batt post and the other on the outer housing of the ignition switch?
If that is what you are saying,then you should get the same reading as hooking it to the battery because the outer housing is grounded to the frame.

Have the battery load tested sounds like the batt has a verry low charge or it is bad.

A load test can be done for free at most auto parts stores. It will test the battery voltage and amps at load factors. It's not the same thing as testing the battery voltage across terminals.

I don't think your switch is bad or it would short out the fuse (or not work). But obviously the battery is dropping some voltage when you load it into the system by turning on the switch. As to why it's not rebounding to the same prior voltage I am not sure. But as Glider said I would have it load tested and you also might want to check the tightness of your battery connections.

 

[HarryB737]

I too would have the battery tested, but when you say you turned the switch to "on", and did not mention starting the bike... you are going to have a voltage drop because the lights & other load will bring the voltage down without the assistance of the alternator to bring the charge back up.
While you're checking the battery also clean "shiney" both ends of the cables & check between the terminals and the conductors for corrosion.

 

[R_W_B]

I too would have the battery tested, but when you say you turned the switch to "on", and did not mention starting the bike... you are going to have a voltage drop because the lights & other load will bring the voltage down without the assistance of the alternator to bring the charge back up.
While you're checking the battery also clean "shiney" both ends of the cables & check between the terminals and the conductors for corrosion.

I think he is concerned with the fact that when he turns the switch OFF it does not recover. But yes this sounds like a battery going bad.