V&H Power duals or dresser duals???

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by glazier, Jan 25, 2015.

  1. glazier

    glazier Junior Member

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    Thinking about upgrading my exhaust system and going with either one of these on my 2013 FLHTK. Anyone have an opnion one way or the other??? Going to match them up with either the Hi-output slip ons or the new 450s. The 450s have a 2 1/2" baffle. Will that not create enough back pressure??? I'm sure V&H has done enough R&D on these and I've heard good things about them, so thats probably what I'm going with. Has anyone installed them on their bike??? Probably going to upgrade my cams at the same time too. Thinking SE255's, hi volume oil pump, and new inner cam bearings as long as I'm in there. All opinions and advise welcomed, as long as I don't get 20 different suggestions to confuse me even further :p

    Thanks
     
  2. dolt

    dolt Senior Member Contributor

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    Power Duals over the Dresser Duals for sure. Mufflers is a bit of a mixed bag. I don't know much about the V&H H/Os but the Rineharts and Kuryakyn Crushers are good performers with the V&H Power Duals.

    The Andrews 54 or 57, or the TMan 555 Torkster might serve you better than the 255s if you are looking for more performance above 4500. If not, the 255 will deliver. You did not mention pushrods and lifters??
     
  3. glazier

    glazier Junior Member

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    Was gonna stay with stock lifters and get SE adjustable pushrods. Do you think I should change out the lifters as long as I'm in there??? And if I do, what should I go with??? I rarely go above 4500, so the 255 should be fine (I think).
    Thanks

     
  4. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    With baggers bigger diameter is better for low end torque:s
     
  5. Bodeen

    Bodeen Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    How many miles on the lifters?

    I would suggest Smith Bros. pushrods over S.E. Check out Fuel Moto PR's. They are Smith Bros.

    Doin the work yourself?
     
  6. glazier

    glazier Junior Member

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    18K on the lifters and the whole bike. Yep, gonna do the work myself. Gonna have to get another inner cam bearing remover & installer tool. Bearings are about $15. Tools are $200+ for a one time use :(
    How are the smith bros pushrods different???

    Thanks

     
  7. Bodeen

    Bodeen Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    Liters could go either way on the mileage, it it were me I would change'm.
    Smith Bros. = better quality. Some reports of the S.E. having the tapped portion the adjuster crooked. Cost isn't much different.
     
  8. dolt

    dolt Senior Member Contributor

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    I would definitely change the lifters; your OEM lifters, and replacements, were made in Mexico and there have been quality issues with the roller pin and the hardened surface of the roller flaking; bad juju.:s On the low end are the CompCams VThunder 850-1 lifters which would cost about $75 to your door; many running, no issues. If you go that route, call CompCams and order a set but specify made in USA as CompCams are supplied by several manufacturers and, last I knew, there was still a US manufacturer. Moving up the cost ladder are the S&S Standard and Premium, Woods Directional, Headquarters Black Ops or Gaterman. If you want to spend near $300, S&S Premium or Woods Directional. Personally, CompCams or S&S Standard would be more than adequate.

    Nothing wrong with SE Quick Install Tapered (PN 18404-08). There were some issues when they first came out; poor quality adjustor nuts that would micro crack when tightened and come loose but that issue has been addressed. They will run about $140 from an online discount dealer like Newcastle; kit includes tubes, clips, O-rings and pushrods. Smith are the top of the line but difficult to adjust unless you replace the OEM tubes with the SE tubes. They are thicker wall, heavier and less prone to flex but, honestly, for your application not necessary IMHO. Smith recommends a bit of red Loctite; use just a tiny bit with the SE pushrods as added insurance against jam nut coming loose. I apply, not even a drop, with toothpick between the jam nut and the pushrod when locking them down. Makes readjustment more time consuming as you must deal with the Loctite but not a big deal; just make sure you get the pushrod adjustment right the first time. :DYour call; I run SE adjustable on both my 95" and all bore 107", no issues.:bigsmiley23:
     
  9. Bodeen

    Bodeen Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    I got a lightly used (3000 miles) SE pushrods I'll sell you if your interested..........
     
  10. glazier

    glazier Junior Member

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    Thanks for the offer, but I think I'll probably go with new since everything else will be brand new. As much $$$$$ as this is going to cost me for everything, another $150 won't hurt :D
    I might be homeless, hungry, and cold when I'm all done, but my bike will be really sweet :p