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Using torque wrenches

Trek

Junior Member
When doing basic maintenance such as changing fluids and cleaning the air cleaner does everyone use a torque wrench on the drain plugs and primary inspection cover and a/c cover or do you just tighten them without one. The reason I ask is I have almost always changed fluids in my family vehicles and never used a torque wrench or even thought about it until I started reading this forum. Just curious to everyone's technique.
 
When doing basic maintenance such as changing fluids and cleaning the air cleaner does everyone use a torque wrench on the drain plugs and primary inspection cover and a/c cover or do you just tighten them without one. The reason I ask is I have almost always changed fluids in my family vehicles and never used a torque wrench or even thought about it until I started reading this forum. Just curious to everyone's technique.

On the smaller fasteners like the derby cover screws, primary chain inspection cover screws, etc. I do suggest that folks use a torque wrench. The torque on these is only 90-120 in-lbs. Even with a 1/4" drive ratchet it is easy to get too macho on these little fasteners. Not that you will twist one off necessarily, but it is possible to wallow out the Torx socket in the fastener, and then it is more of a challenge next time you want to work on the bike. On the larger fasteners, use your discretion. But remember, the engine oil and tranny fluid drain plugs are steel into an aluminum oil pan!! All you need to do is compress the o-ring a bit. Not much grunting required on that!! Air cleaner cover, no biggy. Just wrist tight.

TQ
 
Personally, drain plugs-no, air cleaner-no, derby cover-yes, to insure all bolts are tightned evenly.
 
What Tq says .

I had to place 3 helixcoils on the primary cover for the clutch inspection cover just for being to lazy. Never realized aluminum was so fragile.
No more now. I bought a snapon torque wrentch in in/lbs and use it religously now.
 
Wow. I never realized how important a torque wrench could be! I am just about to start doing my own maintenance and I guess I need to make a trip to Sears...
 
I like to use a torque wrench on everything I can. For me, it's piece of mind knowing that it right. I hate riding down the road wondering :33:
 
I like to use a torque wrench on everything I can. For me, it's piece of mind knowing that it right. I hate riding down the road wondering :33:

Same here, use them on everything just because I don't like stripping threads or having bolts snap. If I have a torque spec for it, I use the torque wrench.
Heard too many stories of shops screwing up peoples vehicles and bikes just because they were too lazy to follow the proper torque spec.

The specs are there for a reason, not just to fill a few pages in the service manual.
 
On the smaller fasteners like the derby cover screws, primary chain inspection cover screws, etc. I do suggest that folks use a torque wrench. The torque on these is only 90-120 in-lbs. Even with a 1/4" drive ratchet it is easy to get too macho on these little fasteners. Not that you will twist one off necessarily, but it is possible to wallow out the Torx socket in the fastener, and then it is more of a challenge next time you want to work on the bike. On the larger fasteners, use your discretion. But remember, the engine oil and tranny fluid drain plugs are steel into an aluminum oil pan!! All you need to do is compress the o-ring a bit. Not much grunting required on that!! Air cleaner cover, no biggy. Just wrist tight.

TQ

FYI besides the obligatory torque "wrench", for the smaller fasteners torque "drivers" are available as well to prevent leverage inaccuracy that may occur because of limits in available space above the fastener to swing a wrench. This is an expensive one, but others can be found lower cost around...you guessed it "-a hunerd dollars", you can get torx and hex drive bits and adapters that work great for "multi-fit" applications.

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