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Turn Signal Help - 09 FLHX

Rock Chalk I don't want to interrupt what Hoop's got going with you since you guys have obviously closed in a sig ouput fault.

But I'm wondering have you double checked all your molex connections that you reinserted after the bar install. Do they "all" match with your pre-removal notes ?
 
And currently you have a B1121 & B1122, correct? You cleared them and they re-appear.

Yes, i currently have them, but that is because i have not cleared them yet. I will be able to do that when I get home from work tonight.

Once I do that I will see if they reappear and post back.
 
But I'm wondering have you double checked all your molex connections that you reinserted after the bar install. Do they "all" match with your pre-removal notes ?

That's a Great point because it appears there is more than 1 problem. A missing B+ off the grip switch and a pair of pulled down (low) output drivers on the TSM. Actually 3 separate issues.
 
That's a Great point because it appears there is more than 1 problem. A missing B+ off the grip switch and a pair of pulled down (low) output drivers on the TSM. Actually 3 separate issues.

Sorry RWB, i didn't even see your post. Yes, I have checked them mulitple times to ensure that the wires match up to each other on both sides of the connector. Also, right before the "big" blowout (when I blew the 3 fuses and they stopped blinking) the left signal blinked a couple of times before it blew. That tells me (maybe I'm thinking wrong) that the wires were/are lined up right since it did work for a second or two. Since then nothing though.

Hoople --- :) sorry, but your last post is a bit too technical for me...I'm new to all of this, so when you say A missing B+ you lose me...sorry, but maybe explain a little more.

Right now, the plan when i get home tonight is clear the codes, see if they reappear and try to chase that orange/white wire and test wherever I can.

Steve
i also just put in new bulbs everywhere last night just....hoping for some simple solution like that, but it didn't help.
 
sorry, but your last post is a bit too technical for me...I'm new to all of this, so when you say A missing B+ you lose me...sorry, but maybe explain a little more.

No problem. B+ is just another term for Battery positive or 12 volts. In entry point # 5 you said the right side switch wire (orange/white) had appox 30MV (.030 volt) on it. We can just about call that zero volts or completely missing battery voltage (or B+). The left side measured 12.05V which is what we are looking for. The left side had a good B+ source voltage on it.

Your doing fine. Given enough time, money & parts, there is nothing we can't fix. :)
 
Rock Chalk I'm kinda curious what kind of bars you put on and how much trouble you had pulling either side. Did it feel like you had a possible rub on the wires gettun past a tight turn or where they all reasonable ?
 
Rock Chalk I'm kinda curious what kind of bars you put on and how much trouble you had pulling either side. Did it feel like you had a possible rub on the wires gettun past a tight turn or where they all reasonable ?

I put on yaffe monkey bars (10"). I would say that they were a little bit of a fight. After I pulled them back out, I've inspected them and don't see any issues. Maybe that's the issue, but the wire in question now ( o/w at the connector ) wasn't part of what was in the bars.
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some clarification....i was testing the wrong wire when i had the 30.5 reading. the orange white tested 11.95 on the right.....sorry about that.

so, now i've got 12 volts going to the point where each side connects to the bar controls, but not getting any blinkers to work. all other functions on the bar controls work.

cleared codes and 1121 and 1122 have reappeared.
 
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some clarification....i was testing the wrong wire when i had the 30.5 reading. the orange white tested 11.95 on the right.....sorry about that.
so, now i've got 12 volts going to the point where each side connects to the bar controls, but not getting any blinkers to work. all other functions on the bar controls work.
cleared codes and 1121 and 1122 have reappeared.

Excellent. Your almost there.
Use the schematic I posted from entry point #4 (3rd PDF Document) That is the schematic you need to use. Don't worry about the 3 wires going to each front signal lamp. The 3rd wire is for parking lamps which is not part of the TSM schematic/turn signal wiring. That is why it is not shown.

A B1121 or B1122 is normally caused by pin 5 or pin 6 of the TSM being shorted to ground.

Take a quick look under the rear fender for the tire hitting the tail light wiring. You could have a short.

If all looks good under the fender, remove all 4 turn signal bulbs. Look at the schematic and locate connector 21A-21B on your bike. It should be near the turn signal indicators. (I have a Dyna so I have no clue where yours is). Disconnect 21A from 21B. Now remove the TSM connector at the TSM (connector number 30A-30B, see schematic). Now using your ohm meter, measure the resistance from pin 5 (violet wire of 30B) to frame ground and pin 6 (Brown wire of 30B) to frame ground. You should read infinity with your meter on the 200K ohm scale. What did you get for a reading.

If the reading was infinity or something greater than 200K,, plug together 30A-30B. Leave the bulbs out. Leave 21A-21B disconnected. Get into the WOW menu and erase the B1121 & B1122 codes. Recycle the ignition (exit WOW testing) and try the turn signals. See if the codes come back. (they should not)
 
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Don't see anything unusual under the fender and bike has been on jack since before this issue started.
I disconnected what I believe to be 21a/21b...it is the first connector coming from the inner fairings indicator lights, but the wire colors to the housing # don't match your schematic. I proceeded as it was correct.
Disconnected TSM and tested 5&6 with red lead on the pin/socket and black on frame or negative battery terminal. Both resulted in my multimeter on ohm mode to do nothing. Stayed on 0.L the whole time. Proceeded as that was infinity.
Plugged TSM back in, left other disconnected and cleared the codes. Recycled ignition and checked for codes again, they do not appear currently.

Is this progress? Let's hope it means something.
Thanks for the help.
Steve
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