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TriGlide -- Comments anyone?

Hi all, I'll try to answer the questions and comments in here the best I can.

On stability, the Tri-Glide is very hard next to impossible to tip over.
At low to mid speeds it will push the front wheel if turned hard. At high speeds if a rear wheel comes off the ground all power goes to that wheel. With no power on the ground, it slows and the wheel comes back down.
Also there is a steering damper to reduce headshake.

rbrian, the reverse motor is not a starter motor. It is designed to be a reverse motor and at $1000.00 retail is more durable. There is a new trunk seal and lock for water leaking into the trunk. Did you try to adjust the door strikers to make it tighter? Maybe try that. If that still does not work go to your dealer and submit a warranty to get the new door seal. Not sure if the new lock is part of the warranty also.

mrkihn, the tri-glide is NOT a Lehman's trike. It is totally designed by Harley-Davidson. The front portion is assembled in York and shipped to Lehman where HD has built a facility to finish assembly of the tri-glide with all HD tooling and equipment. Lehman is finacially resposible for finishing the trike's rear end and fit and finish.

If anyone has any questions on the tri-glide I'll try to answer them the best I can.
 
I have a tri-glide now for about 45 days and I love it. Only one problem is getting the engine maped. The dealer can not run it on there dino and has taken it down to a local auto repair shop who has the same make dino as the dealer but has soft ware issue. Hope to have that problem solved soon. Do you have any ideas I could pass along to my dealer?

The reverse motor has kicked out the braker 2 times now and they are looking at that now.

Other than that it is great. My wife now likes to ride with me and that is the best part.

The reason I got the tri-glide is I am 62 and a disabled vet with a bad leg. Time to be safe and still enjoy riding.
 
I changed the exhaust and as I understand it has to mapped. They tell me you have to put it on dino to get it mapped. All I know is what they tell me. Are they wrong?
 
ktallen, under what conditions did the RCM breaker kick out? Going uphill, two up?
The breaker on the RCM (Reverse control module) will still make contact and the reverse work with it not fully in. After you go into reverse and put a load on it it will trigger a break. Make sure it is fully engaged.
Another thing to check is the high current connections on the RCM.
If it is slightly loose it will cause too much load and trigger the breaker.
Here is how to check the connections:
1. Take the seat off.
2. Disconnect the high current connection. It is on the left side, under the seat, zip tied to the frame. It's a black round connector.
3. The left side of the RCM is a boot with two high current wires. Check the nut and make sure it is tight.
4. Check the relay and motor connection also.

If all connections are tight and it keeps triggering the breaker it could just be a bad breaker on the RCM.

Just remember while checking or servicing the reverse system ALWAYS disconnect the high current connection. It is directly connected to the battery so taking the maxi fuse out will do nothing.
 
The harley shop checked it and the factory service rep looked at also. They could not get it to trip. It did it when I am backing into my garage. Because there is not much room I go slow and start and stop it a few times. I thing that may be the cause. Time will tell.

If I might make a commet or two. I put a protective film on the fenders to protect from rock chips. That works well.

Why did my 05 103ci have a hydraulic clutch and the tri-glide does not. The tri-glide is heaver and with the same power. I see that we may have clutch problems down the road. I look forward to your response.
 
ktallen,
Installing film on the fenders was a good idea. I'm sure somebody will make a fender bra someday.
Clicking the reverse on and off is a little hard on the breaker having multiple high current inital contacts. I'm not saying you don't have a problem and I'm sure it's an annoyance but it may be an isolated one and that won't get re-engineered due to cost.
Eserv is the company that designed the RCM using standard off the shelf components. That being said you could always put a higher rated breaker on the RCM and have no problem with it. Maybe something to look into if it continues.
Your correct on the clutch. The clutch is just fine under normal riding habits and conditions. Even doing a small "wheelie" is ok now and then. I say small cause the mufflers hit the road. :s
There was a pre-production model that went through 5 clutches but that tri-glide was ridden hard.
 
Do you think I should invest in a hydraulic clutch or just see what happens. I just think they should have put one in form the start. Don't you?

The Harley shop called today and said they are having problems get the program to work to re-map my bike. They may have to buy another program from harley to do it right. Oh well.
 
Do you think I should invest in a hydraulic clutch or just see what happens. I just think they should have put one in form the start. Don't you?

The hydraulics are only the actuator and makes no difference in the hook up of the clutch itself. You may want to look into the SE spring or the VPC clutch setup.

Hippo's VPC Page
 
The clutch will fail due to excessive force applied to it. The friction plates, clutch basket, metal plates or hub will break. What opens it and closes the clutch has no effect on failure. Having a hydraulic clutch is for rider comfort.
It just makes it easier for the rider to pull the lever.
Just make sure you have about 1/8" of freeplay on the lever and you will be fine.
 
It just makes it easier for the rider to pull the lever.

I don't agree with this statement. The hydraulic clutch really isn't easier to operate by any serious degree, it is smoother but not really easier with the redesign of the new 22* ramps in the newer models.. It gives the clutch a different feel too. Cost of the hydraulic unit is the deterrent also.
 
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