free website stats program Transmission slipping? | Harley Davidson Forums

Transmission slipping?

Z

zazzara

New Member
I have a 2011 FLHTP. With the clutch fully out and accelerating in 4th, 5th & 6th gear, it tends to slip. The engine will rev and then it slowly pics up speed and the RPM's go down. Any help would be appreciated!
 
The motor racing in the higher gears is the classic symptom of a slipping clutch. If you have some mechanical ability & a few tools, you can adjust it yourself. Otherwise take it to a shop. Here's a how thttp://www.hdtimeline.com/archive/t-853.htmlo:
 
yes it sure sounds like a clutch adjustment would fix your problem had the same thing happen to me more than once
 
Clutch problem. Either needs adjustment or replaced. Also, what oil are you running in the primary. A friction modifier will cause problems as well.
 
Last edited:
I'll chime in and add that perhaps the addition of either a S/E, or Barnett clutch spring might be in order.:)
 
Check the free play at the clutch cable Ferrule (clutch pull at the handlebars)TOO tight there will allow the clutch to RIDE on the throw-out bearing. 1/8" with grabbing the cable and pull out on it and free should show the 1/8"... IF Nothing is free, That may be the first place to look.

IF you have NOT had damage to the clutch discs... (They are pretty tough)
And the cable and clutch is adjusted properly...... I'd put in a very inexpensive Higher pressure SE clutch spring. (check first to see if the stock one is there) I can tell the heavier spring Visually but you may need to ask...I think SE to be about under 40$ from HD...

I did a Hot 103" build and needed the extra Grip. Mine was doing the same Slipping..... That is what Yours sounds like to me.

Removal of the outer primary is all that is needed.... The front & rear floorboard off and you are set to open it up... Many suggest New gasket....NOT from me I have used many MANY times IF care is used...... IF un-damaged? Clean off all the oil on the gasket and the engine mounting surface (DRY & NO Sealers) then use the proper Torquing and all should be fine.

OH the clutch spring replaces the one on the clutch... Simple to replace CAREFUL on re-torquing the bolts there DON"T want to strip one or two...

The new SE clutch is about 380# and the stock one is lighter. That is HOPEFULLY the problem.

I Use MTL Synthetic by REDLINE (WET-CLUTCH APPROVED)

Formula+ by HD is ok also. I stay away from Modifiers in MOTOR OIL.... USE a PRIMARY Oil and like what I High lighted in Bold above...

signed....BUBBIE
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top