Hoople
Account Removed
Yes, But doing it that way puts a lot of initial extra load on the electric starter.
Tranny clunk
- Thread starter Motopsycho
- Start date
Yes, But doing it that way puts a lot of initial extra load on the electric starter.
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
I have found on My bikes that the clutch NEEDS to be set in the tightest adjustment positions so that the clutch plates get Opened as far as possible... I use the setting at 1/2 a turn back off on the Cold clutch pack setting.(.) No More!
I also keep the clutch handle set on the Tighter Side for the Proper clearance setting, using a tight 1/16" when cold, and that adjustment opens a little more (clearance) when bike warms up..... NOT more than 1/16 at the GAP on the handle.... You know what i mean here.
If your clutch pack is set at 3/4 a turn or more "OUT" you don't get the FULL advantage of Opening-Separation of the clutch disc and you get the CLUNK...
Also and Very important.... I pull clutch all the way IN and wait until I Hear the Clutch Stop and Believe me IF set properly it Will THEN i shift to first...
NO CLUNK...
Even set properly and the Right lube and amount of it in the Primary, By Not holding the clutch In Fully for about 10 seconds,Especially when cold and first start, until the clutch pack stops its connected spin, Shifting into first too soon will give you that Clunk.
Most times the CLUNK CAN be avoided if the above method is used.
I keep my settings on the TOP end of the tolerances (tight) and take advantage of the MOST possible clearance so as to NOT clunk... only occasionally does mine make a Clunk.... When using MY method,, when it starts doing it regularly(Clunk),,, It is Time for a clutch and or at least a cable adjustment.
signed....BUBBIE
It has worked well for me on many harleys and never a problem in all the bikes and miles i have traveled.....
I also keep the clutch handle set on the Tighter Side for the Proper clearance setting, using a tight 1/16" when cold, and that adjustment opens a little more (clearance) when bike warms up..... NOT more than 1/16 at the GAP on the handle.... You know what i mean here.
If your clutch pack is set at 3/4 a turn or more "OUT" you don't get the FULL advantage of Opening-Separation of the clutch disc and you get the CLUNK...
Also and Very important.... I pull clutch all the way IN and wait until I Hear the Clutch Stop and Believe me IF set properly it Will THEN i shift to first...
NO CLUNK...
Even set properly and the Right lube and amount of it in the Primary, By Not holding the clutch In Fully for about 10 seconds,Especially when cold and first start, until the clutch pack stops its connected spin, Shifting into first too soon will give you that Clunk.
Most times the CLUNK CAN be avoided if the above method is used.
I keep my settings on the TOP end of the tolerances (tight) and take advantage of the MOST possible clearance so as to NOT clunk... only occasionally does mine make a Clunk.... When using MY method,, when it starts doing it regularly(Clunk),,, It is Time for a clutch and or at least a cable adjustment.
signed....BUBBIE
It has worked well for me on many harleys and never a problem in all the bikes and miles i have traveled.....
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
I pull the clutch in count to ten no clunk
Motopsycho
Member
Great info, guys. Thanx a bunch:worthy
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BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
I pull the clutch in count to ten no clunk
Jack, DO you count on your fingers or toes???
I use Both, on the left side Only!! :newsmile100:
signed....BUBBIE
Shine a flashlight into the primary case and check the level of oil in there. It should just barely touch the bottom of the spinning clutch basket. Using a heavy duty gear oil in the transmission is a good idea too. All Harleys clunk from time to time, some worse than others. No need to be alarmed. It is just the design of the clutch/transmission combo. It takes a lot of torque, day in and day out and rarely breaks. I would probably clunk a bit too.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
ER AH Yeah, LOL I count in my BIG Head while I roll down the drive way, You kill me Bubbie, but I still like you and can you spare a pork chop? Capital Jack
Hoople - what's happening mechanically with the clutch lever pulled in that puts add'l load on the starter?
I've always pulled the clutch in when starting my bike(s)....neutral or in gear. Just out of habit for safety reasons.
dcfatboy
Active Member
trvlr,
Not Hoop, but I would guess that there is still a "load" on the transmission when the transmission is in gear AND the clutch is disengaged. I would think it's not enough to move the bike, but it's there. I would guess this load disappears when the transmission is in neutral, making it easier on the starter.
Not Hoop, but I would guess that there is still a "load" on the transmission when the transmission is in gear AND the clutch is disengaged. I would think it's not enough to move the bike, but it's there. I would guess this load disappears when the transmission is in neutral, making it easier on the starter.
DCFB has the explanation, clutch drag + tranny gear drag...bad, as being in gear does put stress on starter because the stepped up ratio/drag. As for reducing the "bang" Bubbie and Jack have you covered regarding the more desired clutch adjustment (that was how I did it) and find Neutral, hold clutch in for 5-7 seconds, start engine and while still holding lever in, roll bike down drive way, and when you put in gear to pull away, no bang!