TQ's Engine Build
- Thread starter TQuentin1
- Start date
This Q&A was submitted to me by PM. I will call that member "anonymous":
If on inspection, only the outer tensioner must be replaced, that can be done without removing the plate from the cam chest. The sprockets and chain need to come off, and make sure you replace the plastic chain guide on the right side, as well as the tensioner.
You can pull the whole assembly out as a unit (see comment below). I would loosen the four fasteners that secure the oil pump because you will want to realign the pump on reassembly. I strongly suggest replacing the cheap INA inner cam shaft support roller bearings with the Torrington. There is really no comparison between these bearings.
I do not know how you can replace the tensioners without removing the sprockets and chains. The tensioners are under spring pressure against the chains. I do not think that the shoes are available individually, so I think the whole spring assembly with shoes must be replaced. Doing this with the springs under tension would be very difficult, and probably dangerous.
So I would make this the decision point - if the outer tensioner shoe is at/beyond the service limit (50% wear), I would replace it. If the inner tensioner shoe is at/beyond the service limit, I would upgrade to the roller chain configuration with a conversion kit.
If you choose to just replace the inner and outer tensioner assemblies, then you will need to remove the outer sprockets and chain, and press the cam shafts out of the plate to replace the inner tensioner. If you are doing that, I suggest replacing the outer cam shaft support bearings in the plate. Don't forget to up-grade the ball bearing in the plate to the roller bearing.
Unless your top-end is leaking oil and you need to refresh the gaskets or redo the breathers or something, I would NOT disturb the top-end and would choose to cut the pushrods with a bolt cutter and replace with adjustable pushrods. I would also suggest replacing the hydraulic lifters while you have the old ones out. If you are not replacing the lifters, mark which valve they are from and return them there.
So you need replacement gaskets for all the stuff you are disturbing, new orings for the oil pump and new orings for the pushrod tubes. You might consider some of the kits with adjustable PRs and the pushrod tubes that make adjusting the PRs easier. Those kits will include the orings.
Since you have everything apart (assuming the inner tensioner was bad), you may want to consider a cam upgrade. But this is added cost and not absolutely required. Your choice.
TQ
anonymous said:
If on inspection, only the outer tensioner must be replaced, that can be done without removing the plate from the cam chest. The sprockets and chain need to come off, and make sure you replace the plastic chain guide on the right side, as well as the tensioner.
You can pull the whole assembly out as a unit (see comment below). I would loosen the four fasteners that secure the oil pump because you will want to realign the pump on reassembly. I strongly suggest replacing the cheap INA inner cam shaft support roller bearings with the Torrington. There is really no comparison between these bearings.
I do not know how you can replace the tensioners without removing the sprockets and chains. The tensioners are under spring pressure against the chains. I do not think that the shoes are available individually, so I think the whole spring assembly with shoes must be replaced. Doing this with the springs under tension would be very difficult, and probably dangerous.
So I would make this the decision point - if the outer tensioner shoe is at/beyond the service limit (50% wear), I would replace it. If the inner tensioner shoe is at/beyond the service limit, I would upgrade to the roller chain configuration with a conversion kit.
If you choose to just replace the inner and outer tensioner assemblies, then you will need to remove the outer sprockets and chain, and press the cam shafts out of the plate to replace the inner tensioner. If you are doing that, I suggest replacing the outer cam shaft support bearings in the plate. Don't forget to up-grade the ball bearing in the plate to the roller bearing.
anonymous said:
Unless your top-end is leaking oil and you need to refresh the gaskets or redo the breathers or something, I would NOT disturb the top-end and would choose to cut the pushrods with a bolt cutter and replace with adjustable pushrods. I would also suggest replacing the hydraulic lifters while you have the old ones out. If you are not replacing the lifters, mark which valve they are from and return them there.
So you need replacement gaskets for all the stuff you are disturbing, new orings for the oil pump and new orings for the pushrod tubes. You might consider some of the kits with adjustable PRs and the pushrod tubes that make adjusting the PRs easier. Those kits will include the orings.
Since you have everything apart (assuming the inner tensioner was bad), you may want to consider a cam upgrade. But this is added cost and not absolutely required. Your choice.
TQ
DFHarley19
Active Member
Wow! Sound like a fun project! Good job, TQuentin1!!!
Here is an excellent video from J&P Cycles (S&S kit) of the process. It is a great tutorial that walks the viewer through the process. My pictorial does the same thing, but this is just more info to help the new DIY'er gain more confidence that it is a doable project.
Cam Replacement on a Harley Davidson Twin Cam, including Pushrod Removal • JP Cycles - YouTube
Cheers,
TQ
Cam Replacement on a Harley Davidson Twin Cam, including Pushrod Removal • JP Cycles - YouTube
Cheers,
TQ