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Torque setting?

BeachJeep

Member
I am reading up on the service steps for the Fluid changes and I feel stupid to ask but when it refers to "tighten to 36-60 in-lbs" should I set the wrench for some where in the mid range? I have never used a torque wrench before so I need this point clarified.

Thanks Sean
 
i usually cut it in half. 36-60 is a 24pt range.. chop the 24 in half (12) and add that to the lower spec.. 36+12 = 48 in lbs -
 
Thanks, I wonder why such a range.

I am sure more learned members will chime in. I am definitely not an expert but I think there is what appears to be a "wide range" because:
1.) Torque settings can be impacted by the condition and how clean the threads of the bolts are.
2.) Error within the torque wrench itself. (varies over the range of the wrench and from MFG to MFG.)
3.) Variations/tolerances allowed in manufacturing the bolts/nuts being torqued.

I target the midpoint of the range provided. But a good point that was brought up, and I think the main reason for using a torque wrench, is that some things consist of an aluminum housing and a steel bolt. Over tightening is much worse in this instance as you can easily strip the threads out and have a mess to deal with. Plus, many of the fluid tanks are sealed with an O-ring, so all you really need is just enough to compress the O-ring. I think in practice, the least amount of tightening that provides security from vibrating loose and prevent leaks is the real target. For example, I have had some exhaust pipe issues recently and have had to take the mufflers and pipes off a few times. At $13 a clamp that is supposed to be single use, this gets expensive quick. I use the lowest torque setting that would give me a seal on the exhaust system so I can get several uses out of a clamp. You have to check things a few times to be sure with some test rides and such, but it saves $.
 
I am sure more learned members will chime in. I am definitely not an expert but I think there is what appears to be a "wide range" because:
1.) Torque settings can be impacted by the condition and how clean the threads of the bolts are.
2.) Error within the torque wrench itself. (varies over the range of the wrench and from MFG to MFG.)
3.) Variations/tolerances allowed in manufacturing the bolts/nuts being torqued.

I target the midpoint of the range provided. But a good point that was brought up, and I think the main reason for using a torque wrench, is that some things consist of an aluminum housing and a steel bolt. Over tightening is much worse in this instance as you can easily strip the threads out and have a mess to deal with. Plus, many of the fluid tanks are sealed with an O-ring, so all you really need is just enough to compress the O-ring. I think in practice, the least amount of tightening that provides security from vibrating loose and prevent leaks is the real target. For example, I have had some exhaust pipe issues recently and have had to take the mufflers and pipes off a few times. At $13 a clamp that is supposed to be single use, this gets expensive quick. I use the lowest torque setting that would give me a seal on the exhaust system so I can get several uses out of a clamp. You have to check things a few times to be sure with some test rides and such, but it saves $.

I think that is a very good explanation.:s
 
Porter' explanation and thinking is sound, I also am a believer in less is more. Oft times than not torque value is highly dependent on many conditions...temperature, dry or wet threads, tool calibration and reason for torque value in the first place. It is the science of "stretching fastener, and tensioning of different materials that expand at different rates and is sometimes determined by good old fashion experience. Some values are used because some parts are "supposed" to "crush" down, think simple case of copper crush washer on old spark plug designs. I go out on a limb a bit here and use the middle as reference.

Only certain fasteners that are checked often like oil drain plugs and such do I opt for the lower torque range, mainly because they are subject to wear and steel against aluminum is too "tenuous" a condition to overtorque, regarding aluminum threads, and understanding that is why I use a torque wrench in the first place. Just my way...
 
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