I have not been able to figure out what is wrong with the break in procedures in the owner's manual. I take it on faith that the moco doesn't want to make people angry at their machinery if it starts oil burning, has poor power, or rattles like a box of rocks. Break in techniques seem to be much like oil preference, everyone has his own opinion.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Top end overhaul break-in
- Thread starter dd1228
- Start date
I have not been able to figure out what is wrong with the break in procedures in the owner's manual. I take it on faith that the moco doesn't want to make people angry at their machinery if it starts oil burning, has poor power, or rattles like a box of rocks. Break in techniques seem to be much like oil preference, everyone has his own opinion.
I agree. I will probably get stomped on for this but I have said it before - the 30/60/30 method puts a lot of strain on fresh engine, clutch and transmission. I keep hearing about this method, I keep hearing "drive it like you stole it" and I also keep hearing about oil consumption, oil in the breather, transmision problems etc... all on new bikes. C'mon man it's a piece of machinery. Well that is my opinion. Be easy on me.
Breaking in an engine easy like recommended in the manual can lead to an engine that consumes oil during the course of it's life. The purpose of the 30/60/30 is to expand the rings on accel and decell to better seat them. You're not beating on the engine doing this break in but you are making sure the rings seat properly. The force applied on decel loads the rings from the opposite side than accel and gives you a better seal which shapes the rings to the cylinder walls better than a slow and easy break in.
dieselguy65
Account Removed
I just finished same thing on mine this weekend, but kept stock bore.
Every engine i have ever built, which have been alot of truck/machinery/boats/etc.
I have started them, ran the rpms up to high idle, and held there for few minutes. shut down, look over engine. restart and ride/drive/run it hard as you please. never a problem. all this do this break in and this and that sounds alot like letting the motor get part way worn out. if all the clearances are right, and you built it right, just get on and ride.
the only exception to this, was when I was a repair facility for Ural motorcycles. those the machine work was poor quality at the time, and they needed break in, the first thre oil changes the oil would glisten in the sunlight with the metal particles floating in it. both engine and trans.
Every engine i have ever built, which have been alot of truck/machinery/boats/etc.
I have started them, ran the rpms up to high idle, and held there for few minutes. shut down, look over engine. restart and ride/drive/run it hard as you please. never a problem. all this do this break in and this and that sounds alot like letting the motor get part way worn out. if all the clearances are right, and you built it right, just get on and ride.
the only exception to this, was when I was a repair facility for Ural motorcycles. those the machine work was poor quality at the time, and they needed break in, the first thre oil changes the oil would glisten in the sunlight with the metal particles floating in it. both engine and trans.