Tools required for primary removal/work

[TBeghtol]

Greetings all,

Picked up my 2011 FXDF Fat Bob and have put the miles on it getting ready for the first 1000 mile service.

I am going to switch all the fluids to Amsoil, use it in my Sportster and all other vehicles...)

Here is the question:

I have all the parts to convert the factory forward controls to mids, which require removing the inner and outer primaries. I have all the standard hand tools, (wrenches and sockets up to 1 inch) and torque wrenches. I also have the service manual available from a friend.

What other sizes of sockets, etc will in need to get the primary drive parts off so that I can get the inner cover off? I understand I will be taking off the starter also, anything special there

Also, does anyone have the dimension of the flat locking bar that the dealer wants me to buy to wedge the pulleys? I have a machine shop available, so just need the dimensions to make it.

Thanks in advance, I appreciate any insight and assistance.

Tim in Las Vegas

 

[Hoople]

Pretty sure your flat bar is same as my 2009 FXDL. If so, 1.10" X 7.125" (1/4" flat-stock) will do it. Round off the ends to simulate a chain.

 

[TBeghtol]

Thanks guys for the replies so far, esp the size of the locking bar. My buddy who wrenches for a living says the old school "wedge whatever between the chain and sprocket" is a no go with the new tensioner setup. The locking bar is the "A" answer....

Still looking for info on big wrenches or sockets needed for the job. The guy I got the mid control parts lent me his special 2 1/4 deep socket for the Mainshaft nut.

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

You'll need an assortment of Torx bits for most HD work and probably a breaker bar to get the nut off the compensator since you're removing the inner primary, too.

 

[blueglide]

socket we used for comp nut was 38mm,
made up a locking bar meself as described by hoople.
Getting the comp off U might need the puller?
I've never done that job so don't feel qualified to comment.

Torque for comp nut is 150-160 ft/ibs but best check. Used a tube over my torque wrench to do that -makes it ezier and avoids rocking the bike on the lift if trying to hit 150 with just the wrench.
Hope thats of some use, good luck with the job.

 

[mtmasean]

I used a 1-1/2" socket for the compensator and a 1-3/16 for the clutch on my 85 FXEF. Also, don't forget the clutch is opposite threads. Check out this link below, it has a lot of good pictures and info.

Harley Davidson Community

I also used the puller they made to pull the clutch too. Hope this helps.

 

[sgmfisher]

I have never been a fan of using anything steel to wedge the primary chain and sprocket/clutch gear teeth. I use a piece of 1" x 2" x 3" oak wood as it is more gentle on the gear teeth and chain. Works for me, I imagine a piece of hardwood dowel would work too. In the wind.

Pops

 

[HemiOrange]

I have never been a fan of using anything steel to wedge the primary chain and sprocket/clutch gear teeth. I use a piece of 1" x 2" x 3" oak wood as it is more gentle on the gear teeth and chain. Works for me, I imagine a piece of hardwood dowel would work too. In the wind.

Pops

I just cut a piece of 1/4" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar to 7" long. That was a bit on the short side, so 7.25" would be better. I didn't even need it for removing the compensator though, as an air impact wrench had that nut off in a second.

 

[fin_676]

I just cut a piece of 1/4" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar to 7" long. That was a bit on the short side, so 7.25" would be better. I didn't even need it for removing the compensator though, as an air impact wrench had that nut off in a second.

Air impact wrench is not advised for the compensator nut as it can knock a magnet or 2 loose on the charging system rotor however on occasions it may be the only way to get that nut loose so you then need to pull the rotor and check the magnets
A wee bit of heat on the compensator nut helps to get the loctite to loose its grip

Brian

 

[R_W_B]

I just cut a piece of 1/4" x 1.5" aluminum flat bar to 7" long. That was a bit on the short side, so 7.25" would be better. I didn't even need it for removing the compensator though, as an air impact wrench had that nut off in a second.

Air impact wrench is not advised for the compensator nut as it can knock a magnet or 2 loose on the charging system rotor however on occasions it may be the only way to get that nut loose so you then need to pull the rotor and check the magnets
A wee bit of heat on the compensator nut helps to get the loctite to loose its grip Brian

Well these two posts answered my curiousities. I know the impact wrench is a life saver on getting the bottom bolt out of the lower fork sliders on a Dyna. And I had wondered why it was never used on the high torqued compensator. So both of these cleared up my curiosities and confusions.