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Throwing new codes

An internal short could cause a battery to over charge, rare, my money is on the regulator running wild

Jack, I hope not. I replaced my regulator about three years ago as well. If you recall, my bike started making a "scrubbing" noise a couple of mos ago. It seems to come from the front of the bike. Would a regulator "running wild" create any noise?
 
Jack, I hope not. I replaced my regulator about three years ago as well. If you recall, my bike started making a "scrubbing" noise a couple of mos ago. It seems to come from the front of the bike. Would a regulator "running wild" create any noise?

Not that I am aware of, may be a magnet has come loose on rotor?
 
I replaced my regulator about three years ago as well. If you recall, my bike started making a "scrubbing" noise a couple of mos ago. It seems to come from the front of the bike. Would a regulator "running wild" create any noise?

Check the voltage at the battery and see what you have. If it's above 15.0 the regulator is shot again. You may also want to check the output AC voltage of the stator (phase to phase) to see if the 3 phases are balanced. It's not a proof positive test but it does add to collected information.

I may be wrong but I think that regulator is more like 1-1/2 years old. Is it still relocated because of your oil cooler. Have you recently used any jumper cables to receive or give a boost. Do you normally start & run the bike with the Tender still hooked up.
 
Check the voltage at the battery and see what you have. If it's above 15.0 the regulator is shot again. You may also want to check the output AC voltage of the stator (phase to phase) to see if the 3 phases are balanced. It's not a proof positive test but it does add to collected information.

I may be wrong but I think that regulator is more like 1-1/2 years old. Is it still relocated because of your oil cooler. Have you recently used any jumper cables to receive or give a boost. Do you normally start & run the bike with the Tender still hooked up.

Hoop, you are correct. I reviewed my old threads and the regulator was replaced the same time I bought a new battery. Good job! I removed the oil cooler at the same time. I have never put jumper cables on the bike and I do not start my bike with the tender attached.
 
All the codes are pointing to excessive charging voltage. Using a quality meter and check the voltage across the battery while the engine is above 2000 RPM for at least 10 seconds. Anything much above above 14.75 is pushing it. Really should be something around 14.20 to 14.60.

Just collecting info... how old is your battery. Was your replacement regulator a genuine HD. Are the battery cables clean & tight.

Hoop, I performed this test. The reading fluctuated between 14.1 and 14.2. Measured it for about 15sec with the idle at 2500rpm. Interesting to me, that plastic tray that sits on top of the battery, there was a section that appeared melted, other than that the battery looked good, terminals were tight.
 
At least at this moment, those readings are good. I don't have anything like a plastic tray on the Dyna. I just have a battery compartment. Is there anything that would explain the melted portion of plastic. If you can, upload a picture of yours or from a parts manual. Is the plastic just distorted or is there a dark spot which would indicate a concentration of heat in one area.
 
At least at this moment, those readings are good. I don't have anything like a plastic tray on the Dyna. I just have a battery compartment. Is there anything that would explain the melted portion of plastic. If you can, upload a picture of yours or from a parts manual. Is the plastic just distorted or is there a dark spot which would indicate a concentration of heat in one area.

The ECM mounts to this tray which sits right on top of the battery. I examined the battery and the bottom of the tray. It doesn't look heat related, there's nothing on the battery top to indicate excessive heat, it's like the plastic crumbled from weight or maybe old age. I don't know what's going on, hoping it's not stator related as Jack implied. I did find a bad ground on my crash bar mounted fog lights that I installed to run off my accessory plug. I'll check the stator like you suggested and get back with you.
 
Here's the latest. Started a run to the autozone on my bike, noticed immediately that the volt meter was reading slightly less than 12volts, dropped even lower at idle. I sat at a stop sign as I was turning around to go home and waited for the "lights" to come on. Sure enough both the red battery light and the check engine came on even as the volt meter shot all the way past the 16volt. Me thinks my regulator is bad. My second regulator. Starting to wonder about my stator. I have a motorcycle trip to NC planned starting on November 4. Probably not gonna make it.

Im not aware of anyway to test the stator with 100% certainty. I don't wanna install another regulator only to have it go bad. Any help?
 
P. S. I've complained for a couple of months about this mysterious "scrubbing" noise. I'm wondering if there's a connection. Is it possible something has happened to my stator that would create this slight "shushing" sound and also be responsible for frying my regulator? Maybe loose magnets scrubbing??
 
checked the codes, some are duplicates but this time, under the "P" category I got code 0562 and p/n 32933-08. TGhe other codes call to replace the speedo and the turn signal module..why would it prompt those codes?
 
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