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TC cam plate & hi vol pump replacement

LEOG

Member
Hi All, I'm in the process of replacing the oil pump, cam plate, cam bearings in my 06 SG. Thanks to this forum and the great info found here it has progressed without a problem thus far. I am wondering though. I used prelube on the pump and all moving parts but feel it would be best to operate the starter with the plugs removed and shorted to build oil pressure prior to firing the newly rebuilt cam train. What if any consequenses will the fact that the injectors will inject fuel into cylinders? I wouldn't think it would be good to wash the cylinder walls with fuel. Please give your thoughts and any remedies that we might use. Keep up the great work.

Leog
 
Not 100% sure on this, but I would think with out compression the ECM would not turn the injectors on, it should work like the heat management system when the rear cylinder act's like a air pump, no fuel.
 
When I did my roller chain conversion, I did exactly that. Plugs out, spark plug wires grounded to the cylinders, and then rotated the engine several revolutions using the rear wheel (jacked up) with the tranny in 4th or higher gear. Then after a few rotations to ensure there were no "weird" noises, I pushed the start button (clutch lever pulled in) and let the engine crank over until I could see a little bit of pressure on the gauge. Installed the plugs and then cranked it up observing the oil pressure to make sure it came up to normal starting pressure, and listened for anything unusual.

TQ
 
When I did my roller chain conversion, I used liberal amounts of a good quality cam lubricant. I did rotate the engine back and forth to center the oil pump before tightening, but other than that, didn't do any preliminary cranking. She fired right up, and the oil pressure was good, and it's been good ever since.
 
if your worried about it when you crank hold the throttle wide open it will put it in clear flood mode
 
Thanks for the responses. I did rotate the engine to center the oil pump and rotated it a bit more to get the cams on the base circle as I installed the pushrods. I installed Smith Bros. easy install pushrods. So at their recommendation I am letting her sit overnight to give the loctite a chance to set up. I never thought about the ECM controlling the injectors. I also like TQ response as it is what I had in the back of my mind all along. But the info about the ECM controlling the injectors is something I did not consider. I'll monitor more responses and let you all know how I handled it. Thanks for your input.

Keep the dirty side down

Leog:D
 
If not using the electric starter, how many handled rear wheel turn in 5th gear do you guys think would be necessary to rearm the oil pressure ?
 
Not that many actually. When I was rotating the engine with the rear wheel to change the cylinder I was adjusting the pushrods on, it was enough to have the oil pump (new) draw oil from the tank and start to circulate it through the plate (also new). So I would think that if you could start the engine turning over by rotating the rear wheel with the tranny in 5th, and continue a couple of dozen revolutions of the rear wheel, you will have started the prelube condition.

TQ
 
I wouldn't think it would be good to wash the cylinder walls with fuel.

Leog

I think the only way around that worry is to remove your Start Relay and apply B+ to where relay pin#87 goes into the receiving socket. Just make sure the bike is in neutral first because your by-passing any safety interlocks. It will crank in gear.

But if the spark plugs were out while cranking, I would think most of fuel that was injected would just be blown out the spark plug holes. I would not be too worried about it.
 
When I did it, I did NOT have any gasoline smell which suggests to me that the injectors were NOT squirting gas in the cylinder.

TQ
 
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