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taking apart my evo dyna for base gaskets

y2kflhr

Active Member
so far so good, the piston top looks good except for a couple of nicks on the opposite side from the arrow.
Bike is 1996 FXDL with 35K on it, base gaskets were starting to leak, most of the carbon on the piston wiped off with brake cleaner, I expected a lot more carbon on the piston
 

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The base gaskets can be a wee bit of a pest to get off just take your time and make sure it is all gone and a good smooth surface on both sides
Does your wife know you have her best towels stuffed in your crankcase :p

Brian
 
so far so good, the piston top looks good except for a couple of nicks on the opposite side from the arrow.
Bike is 1996 FXDL with 35K on it, base gaskets were starting to leak, most of the carbon on the piston wiped off with brake cleaner, I expected a lot more carbon on the piston

You do have a manual and know the torque sequence for the head bolts, and check or replace the cylinder studs for a leak free job, JMO from repairing leaky Evos:s

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Although this is for a 1994 evo engine it should be similar on yours
Its a three step process
1st = 7-9 ft-lb
2nd = 12-14 ft-lb
3rd = mark a line on the head bolt and the cylinder head and turn the line through 90 degrees or 1/4 turn use the mark on the cylinder head as the reference point
sequence to tighten
front cylinder = 1 front right, 2 front left, 3 rear right, 4 rear left
rear cylinder = 1 front left, 2 front right, 3 rear left, 4 rear right

Brian . Look what I found Brian, remember a drop of oil under the head bolts before torquing Jack

.
 
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Thanks Jack, yes I have a manual and I did extensive web searching and found those exact numbers also the numbers that are posted on nigthriders site, I am not quite sure how to "check" the studs, one totally came out the other three just the tops came off, next weekend will I will do the rear cylinder. I intend on bringing the jugs and heads to a machine shop with the pistons and have them do what ever needs to be done, the studs have the shoulder down as per the "newer" spec.

You do have a manual and know the torque sequence for the head bolts, and check or replace the cylinder studs for a leak free job, JMO from repairing leaky Evos:s

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Although this is for a 1994 evo engine it should be similar on yours
Its a three step process
1st = 7-9 ft-lb
2nd = 12-14 ft-lb
3rd = mark a line on the head bolt and the cylinder head and turn the line through 90 degrees or 1/4 turn use the mark on the cylinder head as the reference point
sequence to tighten
front cylinder = 1 front right, 2 front left, 3 rear right, 4 rear left
rear cylinder = 1 front left, 2 front right, 3 rear left, 4 rear right

Brian . Look what I found Brian, remember a drop of oil under the head bolts before torquing Jack

.
 
Thanks Jack, yes I have a manual and I did extensive web searching and found those exact numbers also the numbers that are posted on nigthriders site, I am not quite sure how to "check" the studs, one totally came out the other three just the tops came off, next weekend will I will do the rear cylinder. I intend on bringing the jugs and heads to a machine shop with the pistons and have them do what ever needs to be done, the studs have the shoulder down as per the "newer" spec.

I would replace them all just because, had that happen once never again, just my way hope it helps, Good luck on your build and let us know how it goes, Jack:s
 
just to clarify? that would be 8 not 4 and do you replace to top bolts and studs or just the tops? They seem to range in price any recommendations
 
just to clarify? that would be 8 not 4 and do you replace to top bolts and studs or just the tops? They seem to range in price any recommendations

Replace the 8 cylinder studs, you can re use the head bolts, they do not stretch and dont work out like the case studs do
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Although this is for a 1994 evo engine it should be similar on yours
Its a three step process
1st = 7-9 ft-lb
2nd = 12-14 ft-lb
3rd = mark a line on the head bolt and the cylinder head and turn the line through 90 degrees or 1/4 turn use the mark on the cylinder head as the reference point
sequence to tighten
front cylinder = 1 front right, 2 front left, 3 rear right, 4 rear left
rear cylinder = 1 front left, 2 front right, 3 rear left, 4 rear right

Brian . Look what I found Brian, remember a drop of oil under the head bolts before torquing Jack

.

That looks like the correct procedure to me
most info you may need for anything may be found by doing a search through previous post
Thanks for finding jack

Brian
 
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