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Stripped Out Transmission Drain Plug

Bosbury1

Active Member
I Have a stripped out transmission drain plug was wondering a couple things the thread is 1/2 - 20 should I use a tap and redo the threads to see if that works (use a new stock drain plug left hand side 1/2 inch long)? or should I use a self-tapping drain plug (right hand side 1-inch long ) and go that route? Also, wondering if I go the self-tapping route will I have issues with the length? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
 

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I Have a stripped out transmission drain plug was wondering a couple things the thread is 1/2 - 20 should I use a tap and redo the threads to see if that works (use a new stock drain plug left hand side 1/2 inch long)? or should I use a self-tapping drain plug (right hand side 1-inch long ) and go that route? Also, wondering if I go the self-tapping route will I have issues with the length? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Here is an idea. But DO NOT do this with the pan on the bike. Drain the fluid out the tranny and the engine, and remove the pan.

http://www.timesert.com/html/drain-plug-repair.pdf

Or another alternative:

928 Motorsports - Performance Parts - Oil Pan Drain Plug Repair Kit for the Porsche 928, 944, and 951

or this:

Over Size and Repair Oil Drain Plugs

TQ
 

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Will I have any issues going with the 1" self-tapping drain plug if I go in that direction? The last thing I want is to have the bottom of the drain plug hit the gears.
 
EZ way to check is to insert something into the trans. and measure how far it is to contact point.
 
Will I have any issues going with the 1" self-tapping drain plug if I go in that direction? The last thing I want is to have the bottom of the drain plug hit the gears.

Sorry. I now see that you have a Softail, so NO removeable oil pan!!

Unless someone that knows chimes in, I would suggest that you drain the tranny and then measure the clearance inside the case up through the drain hole. Do this while shifting through the gears to make sure you know of any interference.

TQ
 
Sorry. I now see that you have a Softail, so NO removeable oil pan!!

Unless someone that knows chimes in, I would suggest that you drain the tranny and then measure the clearance inside the case up through the drain hole. Do this while shifting through the gears to make sure you know of any interference.

TQ

Very good advise here, if you have the clearance you may want to use a piggyback self tapper, that way the plug will stay in the case and the outer plug will be your new drain. I would use brush on teflon on the threads to seal them in the tranny case, they are tappered pipe thread, JMO
 
Great idea about the piggy back self tapping. Do I need to remove the shocks? That seems like a pain.

Only if you cant get it started straight, easy does it with a self tapper as it will cut new threads as you install it, you only want to do this one time. Try only going one size over the less material you have to remove the better, good luck, Jack
 
Piggy back self tapping seat and drain plug works the best, as Jack Klarich stated, and is a solution for the car/truck guys who want to drain the autotransmission easily with no mess (older AT styles required you to pull the pan, which you had to do anyway to get at the replaceable screen/filter in the old days).

While you could use the Timesert, but they are so expensive, $100?!!! so not likely a viable solution. Helicoil stainless insert would work, w/ tool, tap and inserts kit, about $35, but kinda tricky if you have not used them before. also, but the replacement plug you are thinking of using may be too tall, so going that route, follow TQ suggestion to make sure nothing hits the protrusion.
 
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