stator upgrade-can I?
- Thread starter cemoto
- Start date
Doug_09ultra
Junior Member
Hey cemoto, First let me welcome you to the forum. I am not personally familiar with the project you are trying to perform but I believe you can accomplish it. The best thing to do first is do a search for the info in the appropriate forum category. See the "search forum" box at the upper right of this page? Type in "stator upgrade" (without the quotes). There is info available on this cuz I just did the search. Check it out. Good luck and if you can't find the info you need, I'm sure someone else will respond. Just remember the best place to ask a tech question is in the appropriate forum. Again, welcome.
Ultra89rider
Account Removed
Yes, you must replace the entire stator, rotor and regulator.
Harley sells a 32 amp Upgrade kit Part number 29985-87 retails for 239.95. It is for 1984-88 and stock on all 1989-95 and some 96, 97. I have used the Harley kit on my 1985 FLHT before I sold it. It was complete and easy to install.
These are complete kits listed in a J&P catalog I have. They are for use on your year FL. I only listed complete kits for FLHTs that include your year.
Single Phase Kits
Cycle Electric Inc Part Number 380-270 $313.99
Spyke Super Duty 350-102 $264.99 Chrome Regulator
380-838 $249.99 Black Regulator
3 Phase Kits
Cycle Electric Part Number 382-705 $377.99 38 Amp
Compu-Fire 382-525 $411.99 40 Amp
I hope this helps.
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I went to the higher amp alternator on my 1988 FLHS. I had problems with my old alternator and this forum helped me figure out every thing and I am glad to go to the larger alternator. You do not have to replace the rotor but I did as the magnets can move and mess every thing up. Fossil
09blueflhtcu
Banned
Dumb question but what is the reasoning behind replacing it? I see there is a kit so it must be common but why?
Think of the alternator as a rectifer and motor combo used in reverse...spin the motor and the output terminals feed electicity (technology is moving a wire loop in magnetic field it will generate electricity, only many more loops and spinning it at a fairly high rate of speed).
So your real question is what can go wrong...even though it is a very reliable system: in a high heat, high vibration harsh environ 1) the magnets may become unseated, or degrade magnetic properties. Bearings can lose lubrication, causing runout and excessive wear on the bushings or laminate armature or windings may get scuffed on magnetic pole pieces, short out against the metal bits spinning around at 4,000 RPM. Or if something overheats windings, carbonizing insulation, short out to case and burn out the regulator, and cascade into catastrophic failure.
So your real question is what can go wrong...even though it is a very reliable system: in a high heat, high vibration harsh environ 1) the magnets may become unseated, or degrade magnetic properties. Bearings can lose lubrication, causing runout and excessive wear on the bushings or laminate armature or windings may get scuffed on magnetic pole pieces, short out against the metal bits spinning around at 4,000 RPM. Or if something overheats windings, carbonizing insulation, short out to case and burn out the regulator, and cascade into catastrophic failure.
Or simply put....the lights go out and the engine stalls. :lolrolling