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Starter Problem

T Just out of curiosity, does the Solenoid plunger and its related spring ever cause a problem with the copper washer and the stud contacts?
Thanks Rigidscoot

Electrically...If you wanted to test the studs and washer contacts, measure the voltage drop (if you can probe the stud "in" & stud "out") while the engine is cranking. The closer you are to "0" volts scross the contacts, the better. You can do the same for your heavy cables. Measure the voltage drop scross the cable while pulling a load. The closer to Zero, the Better while you are applying a heavy load. I would be suspect of anything that was more than 1/4 volt..

I am glad others jumped in because I really can't explain some of your findings. Maybe when Glider gets back he will have something to add.
 
If the solenoid is shorted , the copper washer it could cause excessive draw and drag on the starter and short the battery, this would explain the pitting and arcing on the solenoid. Electricity is a funny animal it requires good contacts, clean conections and good grounds, Jack
 
Good news, it seems the problem is solved. Many circumstances led to what I believe was the entire system needing to be upgraded and repaired. This bike although stock is a Shriner with all the lights HD could put on, tour pak lights, fender lights, dual rear running lights and all the rest ect. The stock old charging system was to weak and old to do the job and maintain proper battery voltage, the new system puts out 14.6 volts lights off and 14.1 lights on, Big differance! I took voltage readings at the starter relay wires and noticed way less voltage then at the battery. With the bat wing off the front there was a jumper across the second and third breakers which caused all the lights to be on before switching the ignition switch to the lights position, dropping voltage to the relay significantly. The low voltage made the solenoid not act right and it ate the new relay, they seem to be fragile, after getting rid of the jumper and replacing the relay again all is now well. In fact it starts fast and effortlessly. Now to just put it all back togeather. I really apperciate all the help and have learned a bunch about the whole starting and charging system. Thanks a bunch!!

Rigidscoot
 
Sounds great & Glad all is well. But do you Really have 65 PSI worth of compression? I hope it can't be:p It probably was your gauge.
 
Yeah, I too forgot about that its pretty low, how does it run
 
Bike runs great but the operator needs to learn how to take the measurement right, that being me. I had the throttle closed and was so timid about running the starter when I was frying solenoids and such. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the plugs and do it right and get a accurate reading. Needless to say I am pumped! It sucks when things don't work but pretty darn cool when they get fixed. Its all good. Rigidscoot
 
Good luck hope it all goes good you deserve some good luck
 
Bike runs great but the operator needs to learn how to take the measurement right, that being me. I had the throttle closed and was so timid about running the starter when I was frying solenoids and such. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the plugs and do it right and get a accurate reading. Needless to say I am pumped! It sucks when things don't work but pretty darn cool when they get fixed. Its all good. Rigidscoot

WELL that was GREAT you found the problem and FIXED IT your self....

THINK of the $$$$$$ the shops would of charged you....

OPEN throttle all the way and make sure the PLUGS OR plug WIRES ARE GROUNDED when cranking over checking compression or other problems MAY occur......

don't forget the anti-seize..... just a little dab on the plug threads.... saves a LOT of wear-n-tear on the threads in and out of the alum. heads...

signed....BUBBIE
 
New numbers on compression, front cylinder 105, back 116 cold. Runs good and clean. Thats a relief. Starts like a champ, wish it wasn't
snowing! Again thanks for everyones help! This is a great forum!


Rigidscoot
 
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