started cam chain change out ,think something is wrong

[rexver]

I started chain tensioner replacement today good thing too they where about 3/4 gone. When i went to remove cam plate i noticed that the cam sprocket had play in it , is this what they all talk about RUN OUT? any ways i took the sprockets off,or should i say they just fell off? i read where they would have to be pryed not mine. and the cam on the left just came right out after removing secondary chain, i thought they where pressed in? maybe my bike is more wore out than i think shes only got 22,000 flhrci

also are the o ring on the push rod upper covers made for higher heat than others mine are yellow?

 

[TQuentin1]

I started chain tensioner replacement today good thing too they where about 3/4 gone. When i went to remove cam plate i noticed that the cam sprocket had play in it , is this what they all talk about RUN OUT? any ways i took the sprockets off,or should i say they just fell off? i read where they would have to be pryed not mine. and the cam on the left just came right out after removing secondary chain, i thought they where pressed in? maybe my bike is more wore out than i think shes only got 22,000 flhrci

also are the o ring on the push rod upper covers made for higher heat than others mine are yellow?

No. Runout is the measure of vertical movement of the pinion shaft as it rotates. See here:

Crankshaft Runout (videos) - Harley Davidson Community

Do you have the HD Factory Service Manual covering your model and year? If not, get one!!

Are you doing an up-grade to the roller-chain or a gear drive? If you are just replacing the spring-loaded tensioners with new spring-loaded tensioners, at LEAST replace the cheap INA inner camshaft bearings with the Torrington bearings.

Here is some "food for thought":

Roller Chain Conversion white paper

Roller-chain Conversion - Harley Davidson Community

TQs Engine Build

TQ's Engine Build - Harley Davidson Community

TQ

 

[rexver]

na i think iam going back stock dont plan on keeping this bike for another 20,000 miles, besides it would take me almost 10 years to put 22,000 more on her. i have those post saved and look at them while iam doing this also putting in bailey spring also. i just wasnt sure aboutbeing able to pull the cams out that ease.how do i know if i have the bad cam bearings.

 

[TQuentin1]

na i think iam going back stock dont plan on keeping this bike for another 20,000 miles, besides it would take me almost 10 years to put 22,000 more on her. i have those post saved and look at them while iam doing this also putting in bailey spring also. i just wasnt sure aboutbeing able to pull the cams out that ease.how do i know if i have the bad cam bearings.

If you haven't changed them, they are the "BAD" ones. Here is a pix of the difference between the Torringtons and the INAs:

TQ

 

[RibEye]

...Here is a pix of the difference between the Torringtons and the INAs:

TQ

Which ones are the bad ones? And, what makes them bad?

Enjoy,
Rich P

 

[TripleJ]

Ones on the left are Torrington bearings with more bearing surface making them them better.

 

[BUBBIE]

Which ones are the bad ones? And, what makes them bad?

Enjoy,
Rich P

On my 2000 FXDS motor, when I changed out to Gear drive, I ALSO installed the new Heavier rear cam Roller bearing that your bike HAS already.
That one was around 32$ and the front one was cheaper.... Front one is not that expensive.... Considering the back(main drive cam) cam plate bearing is good (newer style and heavy Roller style)
I would still REPLACE the Front Cam ""bicycle front wheel style BALL bearing"" with a new one.... IT is worth the small cost on that one,,,, thinking 8 to 10 bucks. If that one shows ANY looseness or cracks in the ball shields it can gernade..

My bearings were not in that tight either,, falling out like yours. That being no problem on mine as I replaced ALL , I went with big $$ replacements back then and put in a delkron cam plate, Feuling oil pump, SS Gear drive cams...

If your outer cam bearings fits loosely in the cam plate I would take a small center punch and make a center punch mark in 3 = spots inside the cam plate race that holds the bearing into the cam plate... (inside cam plate not the bearing) That WILL tighten it when putting it back together(so it doesn't turn inside the housing).. Cheaper than a new cam plate and it does work.. Maybe NOT recommended by others.. I have done it before with success.

signed....BUBBIE