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start with 1 cylinder, then the other

I wanted to replace the lifters of the rear cylinders with the old original rear lifters.
But some demon did not agree and one screw blocked my work as shown here -> ImageShack(TM) slideshow
I guess now i need to remove the rear cylinder to access this screw.
 
Looks like ya did a good job of stripping out the head of that bolt. Try cutting down your allen wrench to about 3/8 " or so and see if you can get that bolt out without pulling the jug. Save your new tool as you will need it to replace the new bolt you are going to need. If necessary you can shorten your allen wrench a little bit more to get into that tight spot. If it does not come out with your new modified tool maybe a pair of needle nosed vise grips and very carefully see if you can work it out without doing to much dammage to the tappet block. Take your time and see what happens. What is the problem with the lifters currently installed?
 
The inside of the allen screw is round.
You see the outside is damaged too, it's due to the needle trys.
Last time i screwed those screw, i put few drop of blue loctite, maybe i shouldn't have.
The problem with the rear lifters ? I don't know. But as i can't find why my bike starts only with the front cylinder and later comes the rear one, then i wanted to test the rear lifters as i already switched injectors and changed the spark plugs.
I have the tool now to check the compressions but i have to fix this new probleme before checking compressions.
 
Make the tool as described, get a heatgun, remove O-Ring from tappet block and apply heat to bolt long enough to get good and hot . See if new made tool will turn damaged bolt. If not heat up again and retry needle nose vise grips. Might take a while but it will come out. Heat and patience
 
The inside of the allen screw is round.
You see the outside is damaged too, it's due to the needle trys.
Last time i screwed those screw, i put few drop of blue loctite, maybe i shouldn't have.
The problem with the rear lifters ? I don't know. But as i can't find why my bike starts only with the front cylinder and later comes the rear one, then i wanted to test the rear lifters as i already switched injectors and changed the spark plugs.
I have the tool now to check the compressions but i have to fix this new probleme before checking compressions.

Try a spline drive easy out on that bolt with some heat:s
 
Thank you guys for your ideas.
I made as Mouthful said and here is the wonderful slideshow ;-)
-> ImageShack(TM) Wonderful slideshow

picture #1 : the damaged screw head
picture #2 : could not unscrew more than this
picture #3 : i got the heatgun so after i heat the top of the screw without succeeding in removing the screw, i choose to move (rotate and lift) the aluminium part to have a direct access to the screw base and heat this part. I removed the gasket to not put fire here.
picture #4 : here is the heatgun i just bought this morning (27 euros)
picture #5 : I cut the black allen wrench to shorten it, and once the screw hot, i couldn't unscrew by hand, so i helped myself with an other tool and that worked !
picture #6 : here is the damaged head of the screw, even in this state, i could have some grip on it with the allen wrench.
picture #7 : the alluminium part is removed, i can access to the lifters. I see one has oil on its top, and the other doesn't. I wonder if it has something to do with my cold start problem. Next step is to put back the old lifters in this place.
picture #8 : A little reward because i deserve it (champagne !!!)
picture #9 : The adaptater i made from an old sparkplug to use my compression tester (next step).

This screw removing was very boring in my head, because i wondered if i would not better screw all again and ride to the next harley shop and spend a month of wage to have this screw removed.
But thanks to your tips guys, i use the heat, patience and faith and that worked !

Thanks again for this screw part, now i must work on the next part ... (the one cylinder cold start).
 
Good job fabrozor, glad ya got your bolt out. If needed you can make your new tool just a little bit shorter as that bolt is a very tight fit back where it is located. What is wrong with the lifters that you want to replace at this point? Also somebody correct me if wrong, those lifters have a little tiny weep hole that should face you on the side of them. Make sure that the weep hole is facing out looking at you and do not install lifters dry. Drop them in a cup of oil and let them sit for 1/2 hr or so before install. It's best.
 
I did put back the old rear lifters... The problem remains the same.
So i will put back the new lifters again because they seems not guilty.

... The Compression of your engine should have been taken a long time ago. Your at the point where you must obtain the tools to move forward if you want to fix this problem yourself.

@Hoople : I took compression when motor HOT. I get 140 psi on both cylinders. I'll try compression when cold.

If you guys have ideas of other tests to perform, just let me know, :D.
 
.

What RibEye suggested "Can it be that there is something funny going on with the head temperature sensor, causing the ECM to come up, initially, in parade mode?" is Indeed a Very interesting point....

I thought parade mode did not come into play until the 07 model year in the 96ci motor. Am I wrong to think this?
 
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