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Stage III upgrade Complete - Questions

skcm2006

skcm2006

Member
I just had my bike delivered back to the garage for the remainder of her winter's slumber after I had the Stage III added with 259E cams

I have a couple of questions -

1) When I started it up for a few minutes it smelled really rich, is this normal?

2) Break-in - I will be able to pull her out on the days that are over 40 degrees to put a few miles on her. The Tech said to ride her for 500 miles, keep it below 3500 rpms, vary the speed, and change the oil at the end. Is all I have to do?

3) The tech said to get the remainder of the horsepower out of the engine I should consider getting a dyno tune at 1K. Is that long enough break in or should I consider sooner or later?

Any advice .....
 
skcm2006 said:
I just had my bike delivered back to the garage for the remainder of her winter's slumber after I had the Stage III added with 259E cams

I have a couple of questions -

1) When I started it up for a few minutes it smelled really rich, is this normal?

2) Break-in - I will be able to pull her out on the days that are over 40 degrees to put a few miles on her. The Tech said to ride her for 500 miles, keep it below 3500 rpms, vary the speed, and change the oil at the end. Is all I have to do?

3) The tech said to get the remainder of the horsepower out of the engine I should consider getting a dyno tune at 1K. Is that long enough break in or should I consider sooner or later?

Any advice .....
Click to expand...

dbmg said:
This may help: Harley Davidson Forums

I would be concerned on dyno at that mileage. How much more power was left on the table that dynoing will get out ???????
Click to expand...

Do you have a fueler system on the bike? What are your current settings? If you follow the link above to break in your engine and follow the oil change the tech suggested you should be good, keep in mind any dyno time you sign a waiver releasing the techs from liability JMO and good luck:s
 
Assuming you had a fuel management system installed, a qualified tech can break the motor in on the dyno with no issues. The dyno pulls don't have to be to the red line. It takes heat/load and compression to seat the rings. Trying to do that in 40* weather means it takes a while for the motor and oil to get to operating temp; much faster in a shop.

Talk to local dyno operators. All it takes is an engine at operating temps, load and a few cycles through the gears all under 4000 rpms. Rings can be seated and AFR checked and adjusted at the same time. My dyno guy does this all the time; takes the guess work out of break in. Gets the rings seated and a reasonable AFR; change oil and ride another 500 miles, change oil but not filter. Ride another 500 miles and change oil and filter then back on the dyno for a full tune. No need to worry about rpms for the first 1000 miles but I would avoid the rev limiter and keep her under 5000. Once the final tune is doen, do your worst.
 
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