Stage 1 Dyno Results
- Thread starter Fatboy 07
- Start date
dolt
Well-Known Member
Thanks, my bad; I fixed it.
Fatboy 07
Member
Smitty/Dolt/Bud, thanks for your replys. Yes Smitty, the work and dyno on bike (the 07 Fatboy) was done at the same shop. This guy is a well respected indy that worked at the local HD shop until it changed hands a few years ago and then he opened his own shop.
He is not sure why the numbers are lower with the Stage 1 upgrade than stock either. He said he has had one other bike that did the same some time back. Oh, by the way, he normally does not do a baseline unless the customer request same, due the the additional cost. He only charges around $150 to $200 for the dyno tune, whereas the local HD shop charges $450 for dynoing the race tuner.
Thanks again you guys, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I kinda think it my be a lemon of sorts!!
Roger
He is not sure why the numbers are lower with the Stage 1 upgrade than stock either. He said he has had one other bike that did the same some time back. Oh, by the way, he normally does not do a baseline unless the customer request same, due the the additional cost. He only charges around $150 to $200 for the dyno tune, whereas the local HD shop charges $450 for dynoing the race tuner.
Thanks again you guys, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I kinda think it my be a lemon of sorts!!
Roger
It's not a VERY common thing but it does happen a bit. When the oil pump is out of alignment, the oil backs up in the engine sump and the crank beats the oil to death and robs power from the engine.
The way to check it is to carefully heat the plug in the bottom of the case and remove it, they have red locktite on them. You shouldn't get more than about 4-5 ounces at the most out of the engine. Any more than that, either check or align the pump.
The way to check it is to carefully heat the plug in the bottom of the case and remove it, they have red locktite on them. You shouldn't get more than about 4-5 ounces at the most out of the engine. Any more than that, either check or align the pump.
dolt
Well-Known Member
Sumping could be the problem but you don't usually see it on an engine where the cam chest has not been opened but if the bike has alwasy run poorly since purchased, it could have left the factory with a defect.
Another sure indication of sumping is oil temps. If the oil gets hot fast that is a strong indication of sumping. When checking, check hot after running for a while; you want to know how much oil is in the crankcase shortly after shut off before more drains down. Also, being hot, the crankcase plug is more easily removed but, as glider pointed out, be careful removing the plug.
Oil pump alignment could be the problem but I have also seen o-rings that were pinched, left out or wrong o-ring where the oil pump nipple inserts into the scavenge port. On new builds, I don't use the o-ring specified for this location. The combination of the top (yellow viton) pushrod tube o-ring in the scavenge port and the oil drain plug o-ring stretched to fit over the pump nipple, will insure a tight seal at the scavenge port. If the cam chest is opened up, be sure and check the seal at the scavenge port.
I have seen oil temps hit 270* after 15-20 miles of normal riding and when the crankcase plug was pulled 20-24 ounces of oil drain out. It is like you trying to run in water up to your waist and will rob power.
I would still run a compression check first to verify the viability of the top end. The test is non-intrusive and takes 15 minutes.
Another sure indication of sumping is oil temps. If the oil gets hot fast that is a strong indication of sumping. When checking, check hot after running for a while; you want to know how much oil is in the crankcase shortly after shut off before more drains down. Also, being hot, the crankcase plug is more easily removed but, as glider pointed out, be careful removing the plug.
Oil pump alignment could be the problem but I have also seen o-rings that were pinched, left out or wrong o-ring where the oil pump nipple inserts into the scavenge port. On new builds, I don't use the o-ring specified for this location. The combination of the top (yellow viton) pushrod tube o-ring in the scavenge port and the oil drain plug o-ring stretched to fit over the pump nipple, will insure a tight seal at the scavenge port. If the cam chest is opened up, be sure and check the seal at the scavenge port.
I have seen oil temps hit 270* after 15-20 miles of normal riding and when the crankcase plug was pulled 20-24 ounces of oil drain out. It is like you trying to run in water up to your waist and will rob power.
I would still run a compression check first to verify the viability of the top end. The test is non-intrusive and takes 15 minutes.
Fatboy 07
Member
Thanks alot dolt/Glider, you guys are great. It is a real pleasure to be a member of a forum with so many knowledgeable folks. I will pass both of your responses on to my friend and he can take it from there.
This is a new bike with very low miles, so whatever the problem, it came from the factory with this same condition. I only wish he had requested a baseline prior to installing all the stage 1 components.
Thanks again guys!!
Roger
This is a new bike with very low miles, so whatever the problem, it came from the factory with this same condition. I only wish he had requested a baseline prior to installing all the stage 1 components.
Thanks again guys!!
Roger
hey guy's, i have a 09 ultra with vance-hines straight cut classic slip-ons, pc-v and a arlen ness big sucker intake. baseline run was 66.7 hp. no torque numbers available. after making 13 runs the bike made 73.7 h.p. what a difference. i can't believe you can make 7 more hp by backing off the timing and fuel. kevdon
